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John12

Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2017
Messages
14
Hi All,

Finally got my SGC and a new Beretta 686. It is a multi-choke gun and the choke system seems confusing so I want to check i am doing the right thing.

I have used the following chokes:

Top barrel: 3 notches (I understand this equates to "modified" or "1/2 choke")

Bottom barrel: 4 notches (I understand this equates to "improved cylinder" or 1/4 choke)

Does this makes sense as a setup for ESP and is my understanding correct that this means the top barrel will have a tighter pattern and shoot further and that the bottom barrel will have a wider pattern and is better at a closer range?

I normally always shoot top barrel first (setting marked one dot), so not sure it makes sense to have different chokes as the first is not necessarily the further one, but I guess it gives you the option to switch in case the first is a rabbit and you then want to shoort bottom barrel first.

Hope that makes sense, if someone could confirm I have understood it correctly that would be much appreciated!

 
Oh yes, I can confirm it for you, you are spot on correct, even down to worrying more about which barrel to shoot first. Can I suggest that you shoot the gun as is, for a while and then you can search for another 3 or 4 dot choke, whichever you choose. This will enable you to shoot 2 equal chokes, so it will not matter which barrel you shoot first !  It does make life a whole lot easier. You will note that I have refrained from suggesting WHICH 2 chokes to choose !

 
Thanks Westley, glad to hear I got it right.

It makes a lot of sense to uncomplicate life and to have the same in both, will see how I get on. At least I now know I got the theory right, just need to work on the actual shooting :).

 
One dot on a beretta is the bottom barrel I believe. "Two for top"

But try and remember that chokes were developed many many years ago when cartridges were rubbish. You never need very tight chokes for Sporting with modern shells and I recommend fitting two of the same so you can forget them and just shoot. 

 
Thanks Westley, glad to hear I got it right.

It makes a lot of sense to uncomplicate life and to have the same in both, will see how I get on. At least I now know I got the theory right, just need to work on the actual shooting :).
Of course it does.  Having sorted out the chokes and fitted 2 the same, you could then buy 2 different brands of cartridge, one for each barrel and see how that works for you !

Then again, stick with plan A and work on the actual shooting.    :unsure:

 
I've shot half and half in my sporters for years, same with shells - 24g 7s usually.

The less i have to think about fiddling with chokes and cartridges the better so I can just enjoy the shooting. If I miss I know it's my fault and nothing else.

 
Thanks for the advice all and for clarifying the correct top / bottom barrel indicator.

Just ordered another 1/2 choke from GMK, think it will be better than 1/4 whilst on the learning curve. 

Aim to forget about chokes from here on!

 
Hi All,

Finally got my SGC and a new Beretta 686. It is a multi-choke gun and the choke system seems confusing so I want to check i am doing the right thing.

I have used the following chokes:

Top barrel: 3 notches (I understand this equates to "modified" or "1/2 choke")

Bottom barrel: 4 notches (I understand this equates to "improved cylinder" or 1/4 choke)

Does this makes sense as a setup for ESP and is my understanding correct that this means the top barrel will have a tighter pattern and shoot further and that the bottom barrel will have a wider pattern and is better at a closer range?

I normally always shoot top barrel first (setting marked one dot), so not sure it makes sense to have different chokes as the first is not necessarily the further one, but I guess it gives you the option to switch in case the first is a rabbit and you then want to shoort bottom barrel first.

Hope that makes sense, if someone could confirm I have understood it correctly that would be much appreciated!
I had read on here that it is better to shoot bottom barrel first due to muzzle flip if shooting top first but might be wrong on this... I'm sure someone will correct me if so.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi All,

Finally got my SGC and a new Beretta 686. It is a multi-choke gun and the choke system seems confusing so I want to check i am doing the right thing.

I have used the following chokes:

Top barrel: 3 notches (I understand this equates to "modified" or "1/2 choke")

Bottom barrel: 4 notches (I understand this equates to "improved cylinder" or 1/4 choke)

Does this makes sense as a setup for ESP and is my understanding correct that this means the top barrel will have a tighter pattern and shoot further and that the bottom barrel will have a wider pattern and is better at a closer range?

I normally always shoot top barrel first (setting marked one dot), so not sure it makes sense to have different chokes as the first is not necessarily the further one, but I guess it gives you the option to switch in case the first is a rabbit and you then want to shoort bottom barrel first.

Hope that makes sense, if someone could confirm I have understood it correctly that would be much appreciated!
Mine is fixed bottom barrel first that's one less thing think about never know myself which is best choke in each barrel mite have to go for the like for like in each
 
Pay for a lesson or two really early. Like now. Unlearning bad habits is harder than learning good ones.

Bottom barrel first is prefered ... i will reduce flip on the second shot... it makes a small difference but I do notice it if I need to be 'oh crap' quick on a second shot.

Another vote for either 1/4 or 3/8 or maybe 1/2 in both barells. Decent cartridge of 24 or 28 gramms of 7.5 or 8s.

Practice straight aways.

Practice slightly quartering.

Don't fuss the more complex ones for a while. Many targets you see will be pretty close to straight away to 1/4ing away from you and getting the 'base score' down is the righ way to start.

Start practicing 50 shells a session but REALLY practice don't just shoot.

Look at feet stance (lots on the web)
Look at really LOOKING at the clay not just seeing it (also lots on the web)

Do that for a good while. First things first. Pay for lessons. They will pay for themselves in shells and clays wasted esp when starting.

NB: I shoot mid 70x100 on a competition course so Im no AAA but I stand by the above.

MOST of all. Enjoy it. :)
 
Pay for a lesson or two really early. Like now. Unlearning bad habits is harder than learning good ones.

Bottom barrel first is prefered ... i will reduce flip on the second shot... it makes a small difference but I do notice it if I need to be 'oh crap' quick on a second shot.

Another vote for either 1/4 or 3/8 or maybe 1/2 in both barells. Decent cartridge of 24 or 28 gramms of 7.5 or 8s.

Practice straight aways.

Practice slightly quartering.

Don't fuss the more complex ones for a while. Many targets you see will be pretty close to straight away to 1/4ing away from you and getting the 'base score' down is the righ way to start.

Start practicing 50 shells a session but REALLY practice don't just shoot.

Look at feet stance (lots on the web)
Look at really LOOKING at the clay not just seeing it (also lots on the web)

Do that for a good while. First things first. Pay for lessons. They will pay for themselves in shells and clays wasted esp when starting.

NB: I shoot mid 70x100 on a competition course so Im no AAA but I stand by the above.

MOST of all. Enjoy it. :)
Just to help you with advice. Difference between top n bottom barrel is zero. With true gun fit there is no muzzle jump.

Stance is over talked about and on sporting will be the last thing addressed
 
I always wonder why people who have two different choke constrictions in a sporting or game gun will say shoot the bottom barrel first when they have a barrel selector , surely the whole object of the set up is to use the gun to the best advantage on a target or targets , depending on their flight .
 
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