Auto tryout sessions in Suffolk/Cambs
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AW13
Well-known member
There are a few soft shooting semi auto's that you could try such as the Winchester SX3 or SX4. Recoil is hardly noticeable.
Is there a good gun shop near you where you could borrow one or two and try them out?
Alternatively ask around at your local club to see if a member can let you borrow one for a stand or two.
Personally I prefer an inertia semi auto over a gas operated semi auto but generally the gas guns shoot softer, mind you I am not aware of any recoil with either my Franchi or Benelli even after a 100+ cartridges.
It really is a personal thing, good luck with your search
Is there a good gun shop near you where you could borrow one or two and try them out?
Alternatively ask around at your local club to see if a member can let you borrow one for a stand or two.
Personally I prefer an inertia semi auto over a gas operated semi auto but generally the gas guns shoot softer, mind you I am not aware of any recoil with either my Franchi or Benelli even after a 100+ cartridges.
It really is a personal thing, good luck with your search
If it is of any help, I have a right shoulder problem, I have had 1 operation which was not a huge success. I have a 20 bore which I use occasionally for clays, but mainly for game shooting. I use a Beretta 303 semi auto in 12 bore for most of my clay shooting. I shot a 100 bird practice shoot yesterday, using 24 gram cartridges through I/C choke, without any problems. I have no ill effects today either. I have had several different makes (probably all, except Turkish guns, over the years) but have settled on a mint condition Beretta 303 Sporter with a 28" barrel mainly for the ease of cleaning it after use. It took 20 minutes to clean the gun today, but every 6 months or so I give the gun a total strip down clean. I use hardly any lubricant on the gun and I have fitted a Gel-Tek recoil pad. The gun works faultlessly and is not over heavy, in fact the weight is about right for it's use.
Thank you both.. tbh I’ve had a gun in mind for a while now but I’d just like to do a tryout session somewhere just to see, before I spend. I asked Eriswell Lodge (I live just down the road from them) but they’re not keen so I’m looking for somewhere who don’t frown on SA.
No haven’t I will have a Google later, thank you.
Very kind of you, whereabouts are you roughly? I was an a400 Xcel black ed that I had in mind buying should an auto work out. It’s skeet I’m mostly interested in getting into so I won’t be bothering ppl at the traps with flying cartridges
Doctor Lecter
Well-known member
are semi autos really recoil free , law of physic's must apply ? tin hat on red alert :lol: autos make a noise like a rat trap and spit shells out like a litter lout ! take 2 nurofen and a good fitting o/u .
The semi auto I have is not recoil free but it is substantially reduced via the kick - off system integrated into the stock/but pad (it comprises off a couple of hydraulic pistons ) I suppose saying you don’t notice “any kick” is a touch over the top
it has kick like any weapon does but because of the reduction system you don’t really notice and is far kinder to the shoulder than a gun with no reduction system. 
Many a true word spoken in jest, some seem to believe that the gas inertia operation of a semi auto will always mean it has less perceived or actual recoil than an O/U but there are half a dozen other factors to consider. Unless you start off with a fairly heavy semi auto to begin with they can in fact recoil just as much as a decent clay gun, some can be even more fierce if they're too light.
The only way to reduce shoulder impact with a semi auto (or OU for that matter) is to utilise a mechanical recoil reduction device on top of a good/heavyish semi preferably in conjunction with sensible shells - 24g if possible.
AW13
Well-known member
Have you seen this article:
https://www.clay-shooting.com/features/semi-automatics-for-the-people/
Might be of interest
https://www.clay-shooting.com/features/semi-automatics-for-the-people/
Might be of interest
I’m happy to admit that I was totally under the impression that all semi-autos had less of a kick than o/u because they used the recoil to reload.
The gas operated shuffle of a semi auto helps because it uses some of the energy of the rapidly expanding gasses to work the bolt and load the next cartridge, in doing so it creates a different (longer) recoil pulse. However, the most important factors in felt recoil are weight of gun V weight of powder and shot load.
It's perfectly possible to have a 9 lb OU with a decent recoil pad using sensible shells give less felt recoil than a 7-1/2 lb semi that has a mickey mouse pad firing hot loads. To tame recoil you need sensible loads (doesn't have to be 24g), a heavy gun and a recoil reducer. If you ever get the chance to shoot a Beretta Parallel target https://www.guntrader.uk/guns/shotguns/beretta/semi-auto/12-gauge/a400-xcel-parallel-target-180908160004011 with a built in reducer or a Remington 1100 Competition https://www.guntrader.uk/guns/shotguns/remington/semi-auto/12-gauge/1100-competition-190110161656003 next to a standard semi you will see the difference instantly, over the whole course of a competition the difference will be massive.
Ah ok yes I see, I get the M1V1=m2v2 side of things but I wasn’t sure how much of the recoil was used for the reload. So from what you say I’m now wondering if using 21g cartridges in a decent weight o/u (properly fitted) might be another route to consider?
Absolutely, don't get overly involved with the "properly" fitted part, there's a fair bit of baloney and unsubstantiated doodah talked about "fit" curing recoil, it won't because you canne change the laws of physics.
Of course you need a gun that's not a stupid fit but in plain terms the most critical part tends to be the comb configuration because the incorrect set up will slap you in the cheek, you also ideally need to get the pitch right because that too can affect the recoil behaviour of the gun during the firing phase and can negatively impact the stability of the gun but it would need to be wildly out to cause real problems.
You would have to be very very recoil sensitive to NEED a tricked up semi auto, if you're prepared to look around for a heavyish OU with a recoil reducer with a good thickish recoil pad like Isis Green or Sorbothane (and make sure it's not a poor fit) and then match it to a sensible shell such as Eley 1st 28g or almost any 24 or 21g you will be fine. I personally don't like 21g loads but at least they will work in most OU's and regardless of how good a semi you buy and how often you clean it (my pet hate) the fact remains that they will always be less reliable and generally less fluid to shoot.
Good guns Baloney & Doodah, basically Chinese H&H copies..
Ok so in the vaguest terms then, for a noob with an iffy shoulder who wants to try a bit of sporting without breaking the bank, buy a decent make 30” sporter o/u with a recoil pad (silver pigeon?) and experiment with cartridges.
Ok so in the vaguest terms then, for a noob with an iffy shoulder who wants to try a bit of sporting without breaking the bank, buy a decent make 30” sporter o/u with a recoil pad (silver pigeon?) and experiment with cartridges.
Well I went to Eriswell Lodge today and tried some 21g cartridges in one of their guns which were fine recoil-wise so I guess I’ll be going that route for my lessons. I can’t yet work up any excitement for shooting with an o/u and feel a tad disappointed I can’t use a SA but maybe they’ll grow on me, I can see how they’re safer in the hands of a beginner though. I hit 20 of the 25 which I’m satisfied with as it’s only my second attempt and a year after the first.
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