Beretta 686 E - Second Barrel Issue

[ExSCA]

So, I started to see a problem with my gun today - first time I have had any concerns. I put in new chokes yesterday and was using Fiocchi 28/8 Super Sporters rather than my usual White Gold 28/8 - however, I'm sure the cartridges were a coincident.

A number of times (maybe 6/7 today) - my second barrel didn't cock - no strike on he cartridge at all. I have seen it before when my barrell selector somehow got nudged to the middle (checked that - no issue).

I ejected the spent shell and reloaded - no problem the next pair. Of course, on a day when I wasn't shooting well, it compounded my day and I'm ready to commit hari-kiri this afternoon.

Gun is about 18 months old - has probably 6000 cartridges through it, any suggestions as to what could cause that?

As a side note, I have a massive week at work so Jon Skeet has kindly offered to take it for fixing so that I can get it back in time for the Berkshire FITASC championships next week. Thanks Jon!

 

[lhs]

Back to GMK with it

A mate had prob with 682 gold e would randomly not fire second barrel(top barrel) swap so shoot top first no problems

Gun about 16 months 20 thou carts old turned out to be something relating to sears sent back to gmk 3 weeks later came back all sorted

you could try stripping stock off and cleaning trigger mech just in case it not just but of c??p in there ?

Hope this is of some use

 

[Hamster]

Matt, when you say the second barrel didn't cock, do you mean the first shot fired as per normal and the second didn't dispite an audible click or no click?

Audible click is clearly a striker issue, hard primers are also a known cause but not likely in this case.

One of the things we all go through from time to time is not releasing the trigger thus allowing it to re-set for the second shot. This is commonly caused by nerves and may well have affected you if you weren't shooting well.

 

[ExSCA]

No click - and no struck primers - and after some advice, I consciously checked to ensure that I was releasing - I have never had an issue with that before, so I'm 99% sure it wasn't me not releasing the trigger.

 

[redbay6.1]

Common problem on 68 series i'm using Fiocchi Supers and if the gun mount is not 100% firm the inerta block will not set the 2nd trigger. Beretta gunsmith will fit lighter springs for £20 which i'm planning to do.

Fiocchi are softer recoil than Kent or White Gold so I'm sticking with them. Change to lighter springs asap best option

Cheers

 

[ExSCA]

Interesting - I've used 1000 of the Fiocchi SS before, and I've always felt a bit MORE recoil with them over the White Gold - but never seen that problem before. Could it get a bit more likely as the gun 'ages' a bit?

Thanks for the advice though, maybe I'll switch back to the White Gold ASAP and see if the problem recurs.

 

[JonSkeet2]

Hamster,

Both myself and CleverSC3 never heard a click and after the number of occurrences very unlikely to be a recoil flinch or failure to release the trigger.

We checked the barrel selector was hard over and reset it and the problem was very inconsistent.

My gut feel and having done a bit of research I would think it's a build up of crap on the inertia block, a burr or something similar.

Hopefully an easy fix.

Jon.

 

[Chris B]

Matt, I had a similar problem with my DT10, I took it to N Teagues, and it turned out to be a small spring which on cocking holds the firing pins back, and like yours it did not do it every time so I was doubtfull that this was the problem, but one new spring later and no problems since.

 

[Fuzrat]

First thing I would do is have the stock off and clean the action out. This is partly the reason I hate gun grease in the action, it tends to attract crud and over time dries out and goes hard and crusty spray a bit of vp90 in it cotton bud it out and blow out with the air line then lightly oil in there rather than grease.

 

[VicW]

I had exactly that problem with my last o/u Matt.

I cleaned and re-oiled the action and problem was solved.

As Fuz says grease in the action is not good,it attracts crud and glues the bits together.

One the best things I ever acquired for cleaning guns was an air compressor.You can remove excess cleaning fluid along with the bits of crud,re-oil and blow the excess oil off.

In the absence of a compressor I am told a divers air bottle works very well as long you can recharge it.

Vic.

 

[JonSkeet2]

Matt,

I have access to both a compressor, all the required tools and cleaning stuff, happy to strip it, clean it, re-oil it then go shoot it to see if it's resolved?

Let me know.

Jon.

 

[Fuzrat]

I had exactly that problem with my last o/u Matt.

I cleaned and re-oiled the action and problem was solved.

As Fuz says grease in the action is not good,it attracts crud and glues the bits together.

One the best things I ever acquired for cleaning guns was an air compressor.You can remove excess cleaning fluid along with the bits of crud,re-oil and blow the excess oil off.

In the absence of a compressor I am told a divers air bottle works very well as long you can recharge it.

Vic.

And I would imagine that as Matt has little in the way of "man-skills" and doesnt even own a screwdriver, the action will still be chock full of shipping grease from new as he wont have ever had the stock off.

Matt R Jnr had to explain what an allen key was this morning :.: :.: :.:

 

[ExSCA]

Thanks chaps.

(I do really know what an Allen key is - problem is, I only have the ones that Ikea give you)

 

[redbay6.1]

Just stripped de greased with carb cleaner and sprayed with 303 my 682 action. Blew out well with strong aircompresser each time. Shocked at the amount of oil on the action that had come back through the firing pins and lock pins when i first took it apart. Will be storing barrels down in the cabnet in the furture. Keep barrels on to get stock on & off Blow out with the triggers both cocked & fired got a lot more oil out after decock.

Hope this helps [beretta 682]

Cheers

 

[Will Hewland]

AH! Matt, do you oil the barrels well and store stock down?

That will do it..

CSC3

 

[Westward]

Have the cocking rods been checked yet? If the rod is sticking in the hole or the spring has failed, the hammer will be impeded and won't strike properly. A sticking rod can sometimes be sorted with a drop of oil but if it's really gummed up or a broken spring you'll need a gunsmith. It's also possible that a hammer spring has failed. If broken these springs will continue to function to a limited extent because they are captive and don't fly apart.

Beretta actions aren't shipped with packing grease. The 2 big No-Nos for lubing a Beretta action are 1) Never use products like WD or equivalent. Firstly they are very poor lubricants but also because they leave a residue which attracts muck and 2) Never use grease; partly for the same reason but also because it can emulsify causing all sorts of problems.

All the action needs is light machine oil in very, very small quantities applied selectively to the right places.

 

[Westward]

Shocked at the amount of oil on the action that had come back through the firing pins and lock pins when i first took it apart.

The locking pins, or better yet the locking holes, should really only be lubed with grease & in tiny amounts because oil isn't a suitable lube for such small contact areas. It's not a good idea to oil the the firing pins either. TBH they don't need any lubrication.

In general there should be very little of anything untoward finding it's way into the action on a 68X series gun.

 

[Nicky T]

For what it's worth I reckon that it's an inertia issue. I experienced something similar when shooting Proper Cartridges a couple of years back - one thick extra layer in the cold made all the difference as they were soft shooting enough to make the inertia system unreliable. a simple change to a thermal top and a long sleeve that did the job and not an issue on the remaining 10,000+ Propers I shot since then.