Cleaning rod/kit suggestions?

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El Spavo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
950
Location
Hampshire/Berkshire/Surrey border
Just bought my first toy, a B525 Sporter One, and wanting to keep it in good fettle just wondered what cleaning rods or kits people recommened to get rid of fouling and other stuff after a days shooting? Also, any opinions on whether one piece or screw together kits are better, and other subjective stuff like that to give me some ideas. :)

 
Stigger's suggestions are all good. You don't have to overthink this too much. Cleaning is a pretty straightforward process and most tools will do the job well if you use them properly. I'd certainly look into getting a bore snake as well. Whilst I think using a rod and brush is needed every now and then, the bore snake will clean well-maintained barrels very well and is very quick and easy (wash the snake every few uses to keep in working well). A toothbrush (or similarly sized brush) is also useful for cleaning the hard to reach places.

 
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Cheers, with the absence of replies up to now, i got the cleaning kit from my local Decathlon for about 6 quid, so no loss if it's carp, I can always get better, and was looking at the snake bore, wondered how good it actually was. Thanks

 
Your better with a full length mop rather than bore snake, much easier to use and better results 👍

Bisley do a good cleaning kit if the one you bought proves to be as sh*te as its price tag would suggest

 
I've got a Hoppes bore snake and find it excellent. To clean inside the barrels, simply spray some gun cleaner (I use Napier as listed by Stigger above) down each barrel, run the snake through each barrel once and they will be clean (unless fouling is heavy). I won't go through full cleaning, but a couple of important points that aren't always covered in the numerous online guides:

- Don't forget to loosen and then re-tighten the chokes each time you clean the gun otherwise they can seize (fully remove, clean and re-grease occasionally too)

- Pay special attention to the chambers (these are the most commonly corroded part of the barrels in used guns for obvious reason); I use some rag and a finger to make sure they are clean)

EDIT: Just seen ips' comment and I should stress that the bore snake is not a match for a proper clean with a bronze brush, mop, etc. However, the snake is more than adequate (for the inside of the barrels) if you have only shot 100 rounds or so on a dry day

 
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Whatever rod set  you finally end up with * , a good tip is also to buy a “ Payne Gallwey “  brush , for scrubbing the chambers through the forcing cones area  , as this is where the fouling can be heaviest . You can just use the first section of rod as a chamber brush handle for the P- G  . Also if you have the spare cash ,  a Paradox Gun Cleaner ( sheep on a stick ! ) isn’t a bad thing to have for a quick cleanup of the barrels .Don’t waste money buying cloth cleaning patches , kitchen roll is perfect for the job .   

* I’ve got a Decathalon  kit in the car boot for emergencies . It’s  “all right for the money “, but  the biggest issue is the threads don’t fit standard Parker Hale / Bisley  brushes , jags etc etc . 

 
Will look into the Boresnake a bit more as I've seen them before but wasn't sure how good they actually are or aren't. American sites seem to rave about them.

Spoke to the gunsmith prior to buying my potentially sh1te cleaning rod kit and he said just get a wood or brass rod, bit of Legia, use 0000 wire wool wrapped around the brush for the fouling, then a decent bit of cloth for the mop, and it's done! Saw him do the before and after on my gun so I guess it works. The guns he was customising & servicing were stunning so I guess he's not gonna fudge them?!

As long as it's long enough and doesn't break or come undone, surely a rod's, a rod's, a rod at the end of the day, it's the bit at the clever end that counts? ONly doing a 100 or so every few weeks/per month so not a high usage at present.

Unlike the Bisely, I saw a fair bit of Parker Hale stuff for sale reasonably but couldn't find much info on it; is it good stuff?

 
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As the barrels of your 525 are chrome lined , wire wool certainly won’t do any harm . The Decathlon  kit has a steel “ tornado” brush with it anyway . Parker Hale is probably one of the oldest names in shooting accessories . .  Parker Hale has been sold for ever . No reason the decathalon rod won’t last though ,  .   I’ve only managed to break one rod in 40 years of cleaning !  Over time you’ll end up with a few rods anyway , and all sorts of bits and pieces to suit your personal preferences to gun cleaning . 

 
Exactly, from years of guitar playing I've accumulated lots of bits and gadgets through trial and error, it's always the start where you're dipping a toe in the water when a bit of direction comes in handy. Everyone finds their own way eventually, just a bit blind at first.

 
Not always true about a rod just being a rod.  Over nearly 60 years I have accumulated  several types of cleaning rod, most of the wooden/brass jointed rods waggle around like nothing on earth, the brass being loose on the shrunken wood and the 3 piece variety are even worse. I have 4 aluminium rods of American distribution, 1 x one piece, 2 x two piece and 1 x three piece. These are my full time cleaning rods and they remain assembled permanently.  Two of the rods have the 'Bisley'  solid bronze type brushes (sometimes called chamber brushes). 1 in 12 bore, the other being in 20 bore. The other 2 rods are fitted with 2 split plastic jags of 12 bore gauge. One or two sweeps with the bronze brush and then the same with the Napier 'super clean ' patch material, in the split jag. ONLY if there is any fouling (usually around the forcing cone/chamber area) will I use Phillips spray cleaner and some balls of kitchen towel. Strips of kitchen towel wrapped around the plastic jag also works well.  I carry a Bore-Snake in each gun case, but only use them if I am shooting away from home.  Buy a small can of spray 3 in 1 oil and the same in WD40. Carry them in your shooting bag. If it is raining at the start of the day, whip off the forend and spray the barrels with 3 in 1 oil. Wipe off surplus with kitchen towel. If the gun gets wet, spray the barrels inside and out with WD40 before putting back in gunslip for the journey home.  I like the Lucas red gun oil  and the Lucas red grease, both off fleabay, cheap enough, good stuff and last for ever. Worth a look, I always use the red oil on my chokes and have NEVER had one stuck.

 
60 yrs.....bloody ell did you only start shooting in yer 30s then ?

 
Interestingly in Clay Shooting magazine gunsmith Tim Greenwood alleges that he can find no evidence that WD40 is useful for gun cleaning , recently I was told that Krieghoff UK say that WD40 can cause barrel rusting issues (???????) .

A gentleman that I know , a retired gunsmith , swears by WD40 to remove lead and plastic fouling .

Most solvent cleansers are nothing more than Paraffin with maybe a little acetone added .

As long as you diligently remove lead and plastic fouling , any oily liquid will allow you to polish the bores clean .

Remember that Bore Snakes and Paradox type cleaners need to be kept clean , no use at all if you are using a dirty one.

 
, most of the wooden/brass jointed rods waggle around like nothing on earth, the brass being loose on the shrunken wood and the 3 piece variety are even worse. I have 4 aluminium rods of American distribution, 1 x one piece, 2 x two piece and 1 x three piece. These are my full time cleaning rods and they remain assembled permanently.  Two of the rods have the 'Bisley'  solid bronze type brushes (sometimes called chamber brushes). 1 in 12 bore, the other being in 20 bore. The other 2 rods are fitted with 2 split plastic jags of 12 bore gauge. 
Fair point on the wiggle . If the pic I’ve uploaded is good enough , you will see that the entire length of the 3 piece  ali rod is covered in clear, glue lined , heat shrink  tube , and the same material is over the joints on the wooden rod . I did this exactly to overcome the problems you describe Westley . Like you I’ve got a few rods permantky set up , plus a one piece paradox , and a short handle chamber brush .  The thing I miss most on the gun cleaning front is  the proper “old formula “ toxic Hoppes No. 9 , sniffing that never did me any harm ..... honestly 

8DDEC296-6C88-4EFE-ACD8-66BC03951FD2.jpeg

 
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Not always true about a rod just being a rod.  Over nearly 60 years I have accumulated  several types of cleaning rod, most of the wooden/brass jointed rods waggle around like nothing on earth, the brass being loose on the shrunken wood and the 3 piece variety are even worse. I have 4 aluminium rods of American distribution, 1 x one piece, 2 x two piece and 1 x three piece. These are my full time cleaning rods and they remain assembled permanently.  Two of the rods have the 'Bisley'  solid bronze type brushes (sometimes called chamber brushes). 1 in 12 bore, the other being in 20 bore. The other 2 rods are fitted with 2 split plastic jags of 12 bore gauge. One or two sweeps with the bronze brush and then the same with the Napier 'super clean ' patch material, in the split jag. ONLY if there is any fouling (usually around the forcing cone/chamber area) will I use Phillips spray cleaner and some balls of kitchen towel. Strips of kitchen towel wrapped around the plastic jag also works well.  I carry a Bore-Snake in each gun case, but only use them if I am shooting away from home.  Buy a small can of spray 3 in 1 oil and the same in WD40. Carry them in your shooting bag. If it is raining at the start of the day, whip off the forend and spray the barrels with 3 in 1 oil. Wipe off surplus with kitchen towel. If the gun gets wet, spray the barrels inside and out with WD40 before putting back in gunslip for the journey home.  I like the Lucas red gun oil  and the Lucas red grease, both off fleabay, cheap enough, good stuff and last for ever. Worth a look, I always use the red oil on my chokes and have NEVER had one stuck.
You forgot about the baby oil..............but i guess that was a very long time ago 🤔

 

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