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Emmsy said:
the 1 2 3 4 system isnt anything special, its just like buying skeet, 3/8, 5/8, 7/8 instead of cyl, skeet, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8, full
Absolutely,  :)  nothing new under the sun as they say and as long as you're savvy enough to read between the lines (which I know you happen to be) and glean the right info from amongst the hype, then all is well in the land of choke selection.

 
I use U1 at rabbits and U3,s at everything else as I am not a choke fiddler and use U3 at everything else.

U2 are a great all round choke, U4 are tight and only need if 60 yards out.

Basically

Ü0 .002 / Inch of Constriction Anything under 20 yards
Ü1 .006 / Inch of Constriction Optimal at 25 yards
Ü2 .012 / Inch of Constriction Optimal at 35 yards
Ü3 .022 / Inch of Constriction Optimal at 45 yards
Ü4 .035 / inch of Constriction Optimal at 60 yards

 
A dumb question - but, if everyone says that a choke gives a great break (which I assume means obliterating a clay) then surely it means that the shooter can afford to open up and reduce the shot density? Surely it is optimal to have a shot density that means only a couple of bits of shot hit the clay and thus have a wider margin for error?

 
A dumb question - but, if everyone says that a choke gives a great break (which I assume means obliterating a clay) then surely it means that the shooter can afford to open up and reduce the shot density? Surely it is optimal to have a shot density that means only a couple of bits of shot hit the clay and thus have a wider margin for error?
Not a dumb question as in reality you would surely be right but if this was the case then skeet chokes would be the obvious choice for sporting hedging your bets so to speak however as we know many top end shooters use quite the opposite, for me personally I like to be in the middle choke wise giving good breaks but a reasonable spread. :nyam:

 
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A dumb question - but, if everyone says that a choke gives a great break (which I assume means obliterating a clay) then surely it means that the shooter can afford to open up and reduce the shot density? Surely it is optimal to have a shot density that means only a couple of bits of shot hit the clay and thus have a wider margin for error?
Smoking a clay, as you say suggests a good hit, but...you only get that with lots of choke/centred pattern.

A great break, is actually a star burst break...where the clay flies apart in all directions.  This is more what you would get at greater distances with a more even pattern, rather than a chip or a miss.

 
I think chokes are all a mind game, 1/4 choke will kill almost anything on any ground as long as you shoot in the right place.
However if you get a nice puff of dust, it builds confidence, where as a back edge chip builds nerves.

helps in the mind games...

 
I think chokes are all a mind game, 1/4 choke will kill almost anything on any ground as long as you shoot in the right place. However if you get a nice puff of dust, it builds confidence, where as a back edge chip builds nerves. helps in the mind games...
Could not have put it better myself have dropped many a clay through trying to improve a previously chippy break by over leading the next one instead of just doing the same its all about confidence for me :nyam:

 
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When I copy and pasted this from ShotgunWorld I wasn't aware it belonged to his forum, there are a number of other related threads that would serve the same purpose, but you have to admit though that coming from someone who has had reason to test to see if HE could offer a wider spread solution than Cylinder then it has to be taken seriously.

All manufacturers make claims, Teague (used to at any rate) claim the profile of their chokes led to reduced recoil :comando: , other ported versions from a multitude of suppliers claim the same :banghead: , but ultimately you just have to pick something that suits you. What you cannot deny is that there are several claims made by Muller that ARE provable such as their lightness, the fact they don't work loose as readily as others, they do remain clean and their 1234 system of overlapping chokes IS simpler with zero drawback.
As I mentioned I don't disagree with the conclusions, as you have said others on other forums agree & Mr Muller does talk a lot of sense at times but he also gets it wrong. My hang up was not what he said on the post you highlighted but the forum he runs.

I never fall for the marketing ploys ( I do for shiny things) and I totally agree with you that all the manufacturers make silly claims, I never get into this choke is better that that choke argument. Unfortunately though he allows it on his forum as long as its pro muller but anyone defends the choke that is being bashed then it is removed even if the bashing is totally flawed.

The working loose is a bit of an issue, mine never worked loose on my AL391 but my standard Beretta one did, however, on my DT10 it worked loose and my standard one didn't. Others have mention on the forum they have looseness issues and Mr Muller blames the gun thread not the choke, but unfortunately he is the one marketing it as not coming loose not the gun maker.

The 1,2,3,4 system is very good idea unfortunately he has now introduced a 0 as well. I cannot blame him, if people are willing to buy it then why not make it. :)

I am not knocking Muller chokes, they were as good as any I have used, but no better or worse. I just really don't like the forum he runs, if someone disagrees with me then I try to prove them wrong with facts and references, if cannot prove them wrong then maybe they have a point.

Jim goes onto how he is in master class then deletes the posts, not a problem if you are a random forum member but not what I expect from a guy telling me he has found the holy grail of chokes.

I know my post is well off topic, I just wished he had stuck to making chokes rather than getting embroiled in Internet forums, as I was quite pro Mullers until he started his forum and read some of his posts.


 
they are black and shiney...will they make you a world champion no......but my K80 has go faster stripes, they look cool

yours sincerely

Mr Shallow

Dorset

 
they are black and shiney...will they make you a world champion no......but my K80 has go faster stripes, they look cool

yours sincerely

Mr Shallow
Dorset
And that is my philosophy as well, buy shooting stuff because its shiny and cool, got to be shiny. :)
 
shot 100 FITASC yesterday evening and finished second, old fashioned FITASC with some big birds....shot U0 and U1 and broke all of the long stuff well enough with 9's!!! which was the same I used at Wylye weekend before last and again the long stuff on the Wylye bank broke well enough. If you are on em they break...simples......why oh why do people get sooo hung up on chokes! yes, if you shoot 300 targets a week you might want to use tight chokes but if you don't shoot a lot, like myself then don't hamper yourself by trying to be a hero and shooting super tight chokes...

 
I use U2' for everything down 30" tubes, very happy with the results, what I also do though is tighten up when I am practising (usually 3/4 and Full) this gives me more information on where I am actually hitting the clay, as soon as I'm in comp mode the U2's go in and stay in, not saying this setup is good for all, each shooter has to find what floats his his boat and stick at it, take as much out of the equation that you can, find the shell that suits you, find the barrel length that suits you, find the choke combo that suits you, and stick at it.............suits YOU sir.

 
I reckon you should shoot the choke/gun/shell combo that you feel works for you. There are unlimited opinions as to what is best and why it is so, but ultimately if you don't have faith and believe that the combination will work for you then you can bet your winning lottery ticket it won't work! 

Personally I use a K80, with Briley titaniums, and 95% of the time I use Black Gold 8's and occasionally use White Gold or Blue Diamond. There may be others out there that use the same and get on well with it, but equally as much there are probably hundreds that will follow this post with remarks like "why are you using Black Gold, they're cr4p, too expensive etc" or "briley chokes are too heavy, too short, too long, don't pattern well and so on.

I've never patterned my gun/choke/shell combo, but I know if i put the gun in the right place it'll break the clay. It really doesn't need to be any more complex than that in my book, unless you really need/want it to be!

I guess my final statement on it is that it is what you make it to be, and if it works for you then great, but if not and you want a change, good for you! Go for it!

Cue the 'bashing'.............

(Edited due to the wonderful autocorrect function.................)

 
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Stu don't worry what anyone else thinks, if it works for you that all that matters.

You are ok in my book as you have the best shotgun in the world so must have good taste

 
Thank you Mr Green, a lot of people describe them as 'marmite' guns, but I personally wouldn't shoot anything else anymore!

And for the record, I've never pulled the trigger on a Browning because ..................................... . (Insert your own choice of answer here!)

The advice I've been given of late by some of the people I'm working with is quite simple, but at the same time very effective. Principally why would you want to make things hard work or unnecessarily complicated? If you can make it easier, then thats good isn't it?!?!?!?!

 
Actually I really like K80's the Browning comment was an attempt at humor, I never knock anyone's choice of iron, you should always shoulder what works for you, at the end of the day anything can break clays if it's pointed in the right place,, most people who have met me will also know that I don't have an envious bone in my body, tab, Growl.

 
Except when you see an Overfinch! ! !

A Krieghoff is to shooting the same as a Horse drawn Plough is to Farming, and funnily enough handle the same.

 

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