ChrisPackham
Well-known member
I have the Napier one, its OK for finishing off but doesn't clean crap out of barrels, Parralax seems to though...
2 Beretta auto's a 303 and 391. Never had a problem cleaning them in the same way as my other guns (mentioned above). The 391 is a pain with the over engineering on the valve assemblies, the 303 being less complicated. The only thing that I have noticed is, if you go overboard with the lubrication on the piston rod/breech area, it will carbon more than usual and it will 'bake on' resulting in finding a scrubber to remove it !i have a 391 semi and have never had a gun barrel so difficult to get clean in between breech and gas holes, tried everything bit still leaves a few marks even when i use a payne galway in my battery drill. looked on a usa site and discovered a home brew calle eds red . mix it yourself and store in kilner jar till clean time
it works ok but srill have to scrub. i think because it is a semi with only 1 barrel then there is twice as much heat and rubbish. i usually shoot about 100 per hour
Explain please how you clean your Husband, Is it a mop or drill ?I have the best method of cleaning ..........the husband
After using my wok it gets a wipe with oil everytime .................................a dry wok is a poor wok :angel:I think so, I never clean my barrels unless I know I won't be shooting for at least a week and then I just give them once through with a patch and a bit of barrel cleaner as stated earlier. As long as the barrels are completely dry I don't see what you can gain polishing up the barrels... its like cleaning a wok... you just don't do it :lol:
Depends how naughty he's been ?Explain please how you clean your Husband, Is it a mop or drill ?
I do hope you use one of those fluffy brush things then !I have the best method of cleaning ..........the husband
I hear you, I hear you ! I do listen (well with 1 ear anyway !). I will continue to clean my guns as always. Especially the 725 'black', cos I have it on good authority, that they come out of the factory with rust on anyway.Westly -
My objection to motor oil is that it is formulated for entirely different demands. And any oil will migrate - how much depends not on the oil but how much there is of it. I mean, it's a fluid, innit? And why isn't the wood sealed anyway? Whether you're after rust prevention or lubrication specifically formulated gun oils will likely prove superior to motor oil. I know they are more expensive but how much do you use? And how can anyone that pays $0.20 every time just to hear a bang (not to mention the $100/day more or less in attendant costs) get scrooge enough to look for cheap oil?
just sayin'
Enter your email address to join: