Lubricant tests

[hnachaj]

Somehow the site will lock up if I try to post pics. Anyways, the winner of 8 test lubricants (EWL 50 was received later but put through the same  tests) is SLIP 2000 EWL 50 a thick syrupy lubricant that had the least amount of rust, if any! It cleaned rusted out metal and no powder residue would stick to it. Number two was BreakFree. The vegetable based stuff, sucks! Products that have OPA did clean. I will post the link of my article once it is all finished. BTW, SLIP Choke Cleaner worked very well on an old Beretta 390 piston uncleanned since I bought it. Two treatments of 15 minutes and nearly everything brushed off with a toothbrush!

Henry

 

[Salopian]

Henry,

 This looks like a plug for SLIP products?

All someone has to do now is tell me who SLIP are and where and what products are available.

Seems to me that if you clean and maintain your equipment most lubricants will suffice. Neglect seems to be the culprit.

 

[jwpzx9r]

Am I missing something here? The thread is headed lubricant tests and then goes on to test anti corrosion properties and not the ability to lubricate. If you want a lubricant then use one if you are more concerned about corrosion use a corrosion inhibitor. Some lubricants are advertised as having corrosion inhibitors added so they may be better all rounder's. I fortunately do not store my guns submerged in salt water for days on end so thankfully they are rust free. Wee tip if gun is used in salt marshes and gets completely soaked remove timber and wash thoroughly with clean water then use a water dispersant and compressed air to remove water and dry off in a warm room before re-oiling gun prior to storage.

 

[hnachaj]

Salopian, one of the SLIP products failed. I am a BreakFree fan as my 2003 Beretta 391 Optima Gold has never been cleaned just lubed with BreakFree. All these lubricants tested have said that they exceeded the milspec test, therefore I used the milspec corrosion tests and others to debunk the marketing. Take a Miroku or Browning and shoot in 80% humidity at 85F, then put it in your gunslip and into the car's trunk. The car is air conditioned. Come home and open the gunslip to find fine rust everywhere. Seen it more than once! The two winners would actually remove rust.The burnt powder test both extruded and black powder were interesting as they stuck hard on several lubricants. BTW, I have done testing protocols in a certified lab for over two years, some years ago. You need some sort of standards and a reference. BTW, stay away of any 100% "organic"!

Henry

 

[PhilS]

I'm with John here - 

What did that actually tell us?  Anything we can use brand wise?

I'm sure you enjoyed doing that Henry but what are the products that a) work (passed the milspec tests) & B) we should stay away from (failed the milspec tests)?

Or have I missed that?

 

[HDAV]

 shoot in 80% humidity at 85F, 

LMFAO you don't live in wales then!

 

[Simonix]

To be honest, I find this thread pointless on this forum, unless we know which brands of oils you used, and which ones are deemed "organic"?!

 

[RobertBeard]

I assume that organic means they have their origins in organic or vegetable matter.

Now we are left to choose between mineral and synthetics but which brands?

 

[hnachaj]

It is simple. Due to litigation laws here and abroad, one cannot say something is crap! Unless one works for somebody as " Consumer Report" which has millions of $$$ of revenue for lawyers. Therefore one can only say what works: SLIP 2000 EWL 50 and BreakFree CLP! The organic stuff based on vegetables is for people that have a veggie brain! Those who don't eat meat! None of the "vegetable based" stuff will work! Synthetic not petroleum based work very well. The better lubricants that clean use Poly Alpha Olefins. When one mentions "organic" there are two meanings to that word: scientifically, it means something with a carbon atom attached. In our world, it means vegetable, fruit or some sort of meat, fish, beef etc.. Therefore, nearly all lubricants are organic! .

Henry

 

[Jeremy Baker]

Happy to dis other brands of accessories on the forum Henry but not here. How very strange.

 

[hnachaj]

I never said that the products you sell were crap. I just made a point by testing, that the factory made just as good if not a better product by not tweaking you know what. BTW, I did use the product for many years in my DT10L and use a few in my 391 Optima Gold.

Henry

 

[Jeremy Baker]

I never said that the products you sell were crap. I just made a point by testing, that the factory made just as good if not a better product by not tweaking you know what. BTW, I did use the product for many years in my DT10L and use a few in my 391 Optima Gold.
Henry

Henry
I sell Trailers to the UK catering market it's unlikely you've come across one in Canada.

 

[Simonix]

I think the point he is trying to make is you made a comment on another thread suggesting to someone that if he patterned his chokes, he would find that his muller chokes arent as good as his beretta chokes.

But in this thread you are stating "litigation" stops you telling us which brands arent as good as SLIP and breakfree?!

 

[Salopian]

Jem,

        I do have to say your sausage and bacon rolls are expensive, and your tea doesn't have enough sugar. :haha:

But come on Henry, what works , what doesn't , what to use and what not to use.

I'll start the ball rolling, in my opinion Breakfree is not very good , Clenzoil and Froglube is.

Legia spray is very good so is Napier. Parker Hale 009 is brilliant for lead removal and 3in1 is a good lubricant.

But WD40 is possibly found everywhere, is cheapest, and I haven't had any issue with it.

 

[hnachaj]

Salopian, why would BreakFree in your opinion be not very good. How about 11 years of first a basic lubing of my 391 Optima Gold, once in a while for bad weather a bit of added CLP and NO cleaning! It will shoot 2 1/2 dram loads and max steel loads interchangeably at the same location. And, it will not rust in rain, sleet or salt water shooting snows in the gulf! Clenzoil was not a the SHOT show and I have not received any samples. Froglube is very similar to one of the products tested as per Material Safety Data Sheet. Legia, Napier and Parker Hale are all probably made by some private labeler. If you want to find out what it is made of, try to get the MSDS. You might have to go around corners to get it, as most do not want anyone to know what is in the product. BTW, WD40 is water based and gets gummy. Water Displacement 40th try! It is the worst thing to use on an semi! Some of the old guys used it in the 50s and 60s until discovering its shortcomings, like attracting carbon!

Henry

 

[Salopian]

Henry,

 AND STILL YOU DO NOT GIVE US DECENT DATA???????

What works ? What is a waste of money?

Most of us here use WD40 as a cleanser, lubricant, or freeing agent. But it does none of those things without the finest product added to it ELBOW GREASE!

I would agree that it would foul and gum up the works if used like you seem to do Spray and Go.

To brag that your Beretta hasn't been cleaned is not smart or clever, it's laziness.

 

[Simonix]

This obviously has nothing to do with anything other than to promote SLIP it seems?!

On a side note, Ive carried out a scientific test on biscuits. Im not going to tell you which ones I tested, but they're all crap apart from hobnobs!

 

[Darkside]

Henry, if your not going to give us your 'data', may I suggest another lubricant...KY jelly, coat your 'test data' in it, then stick it up your a.....a.....attic, where the sun doesn't shine and never let it see the light of day.

 

[hnachaj]

JJ as you are very aware of the lubriscossity of KY, you are very aware and member of a UK group of wankers and homosexuals!  Thank you very much about using procedures!

Henry 

 

[Darkside]

Henry, what a feeble comeback, my 8 year old son would have done better!!!