Hi, If you are not in a hurry to use the gun, which it would appear that you are not, then have a go yourself. I have done several Miroku stocks and forends and it is not as hard as you would think. Firstly though, I would use Nitro-Mors varnish /paint stripper to remove the varnish, take your time and use the back of an old hacksaw blade as a scraper. My PERSONAL view is avoid any of the Birchwood Casey oils and polish. I think that the old oils are a better bet. The likes of Napier or the CCI range may take a little longer but give a better end result. Do try and avoid the chequering wherever possible. I use an old shoe suede brush and white spirit to clean out the chequering. Check out the web, there are plenty of threads explaining 'how to ' do the job. Just take your time.
Stock refurbishment, matching the forend to stock?
- Thread starter Jonny English
- Start date
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Sorry, forgot to add, use a pair of old 'Marigolds' or similar when using nitro-mors. It IS LETHAL stuff. I have been burned through an old rubber glove that had a hole in it. BE WARNED.
Hotshot100
Well-known member
So take note you are not allowed to offer a bit of advice on here any more. Blatant advertising would indicate some sort of personal gain. Passing on information based on personal experience would not.
I am really fed up with the level of bitchiness displayed on this forum. It's a pity as it can be really helpful at times.
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I am really fed up with the level of bitchiness displayed on this forum. It's a pity as it can be really helpful at times.
I will no longer be posting on the open forum if any one wants to contact me please send a PM.
Jonny English
Well-known member
Well I've started on my HW95 air rifle to get my hand in before I attack the miroku.
Have managed to get the lacquer stripped off and half way through 400 grit sanding.
Tried the nitromors craftsman in the yellow tin and the CCL gun lacquer remover. The nitromors was rubbish compaired to the CCL stuff. I Don't know if the green tinned nitromors is any better, but the yellow tinned stuff never worked, where as the CCL worked in minutes. Will definitely be using the CCL on the miroku. Even did some areas with a toothbrush and it still worked a treat.
Tools for stripping, tried some plastic scrapers that b and q had that worked fairly well, the toothbrush worked well. The metal paint scraper worked reasonably well sideways on but too harsh if you use the blade.
Used the 400 grit wet and dry to try and get rid of the stain, definitely works better in circles rather than with the grain as it ends up stripey.
Finish off sanding tomorrow and maybe a coat of stain as it's a beech stock on the air rifle so needs some colour, something the miroku won't need.
Definetly pleased that I''ve had a trial run on a lesser stock first but very pleased I'm giving it a go, surprised myself already!
Have managed to get the lacquer stripped off and half way through 400 grit sanding.
Tried the nitromors craftsman in the yellow tin and the CCL gun lacquer remover. The nitromors was rubbish compaired to the CCL stuff. I Don't know if the green tinned nitromors is any better, but the yellow tinned stuff never worked, where as the CCL worked in minutes. Will definitely be using the CCL on the miroku. Even did some areas with a toothbrush and it still worked a treat.
Tools for stripping, tried some plastic scrapers that b and q had that worked fairly well, the toothbrush worked well. The metal paint scraper worked reasonably well sideways on but too harsh if you use the blade.
Used the 400 grit wet and dry to try and get rid of the stain, definitely works better in circles rather than with the grain as it ends up stripey.
Finish off sanding tomorrow and maybe a coat of stain as it's a beech stock on the air rifle so needs some colour, something the miroku won't need.
Definetly pleased that I''ve had a trial run on a lesser stock first but very pleased I'm giving it a go, surprised myself already!
RobertBeard
Moderator
QUOTE:-
Used the 400 grit wet and dry to try and get rid of the stain, definitely works better in circles rather than with the grain as it ends up stripey.
END QUOTE
I am concerned about the use of 400 grit in circles as when polished up after oiling you may well have circular scratches visible!
Does nobody use very very fine wire wool for rubbing down their stocks and keep it going WITH the grain to avoid scratches?
There are also much finer grades of wet and dry that you can use before you start applying oil. Car refinisher suppliers are a good source of fine wet & dry.
Used the 400 grit wet and dry to try and get rid of the stain, definitely works better in circles rather than with the grain as it ends up stripey.
END QUOTE
I am concerned about the use of 400 grit in circles as when polished up after oiling you may well have circular scratches visible!
Does nobody use very very fine wire wool for rubbing down their stocks and keep it going WITH the grain to avoid scratches?
There are also much finer grades of wet and dry that you can use before you start applying oil. Car refinisher suppliers are a good source of fine wet & dry.
Andy S
Well-known member
Jonny English
Well-known member
Don't panic Robert, I''ve got some 800 and 1200 grade to go yet, to get it super fine. If you rub in straight lines with the grade you get lines or even long dents in the finish apparently, and now I''ve had a bit of a go I see why, also you have to use a sanding block when ever possible. I think you can use wire wool, but from what I''ve seen its more for using inbetween layers of oil.
Jonny English
Well-known member
Last edited by a moderator:
Jonny English
Well-known member
Jonny English
Well-known member
Wicked, thanks ips, what about the chequering. Keep the oil out if it, just a little bit, or same as the rest of the stock?
N
no.1topdog
Guest
Just a quick bit of advice Johnny, you didn't mention it but don't forget to flat it down again after staining when it's dry with something like rottenstone as all the fibres will be lifted after the stain. It'll save you several coats of oiling as you won't be filling it up between the fibres before the finish builds.
As far as rubbing down between oil coats, if your pre-oiling prep is done well you shouldn't need to unless you find the finish builds in some areas and not others. If it does, bring out the rottenstone again to even it up without removing the finish you have achieved. :biggrin:
The better your preparation, the better finish you will achieve, Don't rush it! :biggrin:
Jonny English
Well-known member
N
no.1topdog
Guest
Chances are that you won't have taken much finish off the chequering with your sanding down. Hopefully it's still crisp and not rubbed off. You'll find that during polishing you'll be holding it all manner of ways so the oil residue on your hands will be enough to put on a finish. If you apply oil directly into the chequering you'll never be able to rub it in as you need to do, so it will build into a gooey mess between the diamonds. If you do get a build up (because you've applied too much) use a toothbrush to flick it out of the diamonds. Keep them as crisp as you can. So basically, don't apply on the chequering unless you really need to, but you probably won't. :biggrin:
Jonny English
Well-known member
ips
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- Jul 19, 2012
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- 15,642
Agree with mike
the smallest amount of oil on the chequring at the end rub in with a brush. Also as mike says you will prob need to flat it after the stain but then just build coats up, remember many small amounts over time too much oil in one go and you will not get good results so small and often.
the smallest amount of oil on the chequring at the end rub in with a brush. Also as mike says you will prob need to flat it after the stain but then just build coats up, remember many small amounts over time too much oil in one go and you will not get good results so small and often.
Andy S
Well-known member
It might also be a good idea to use grain sealer first, then sand down, as this will fill any small holes in and allow the finish to be a lot smoother.
Jonny English
Well-known member
Well I've oiled up the air rifle stock and its not come up too bad. Made a couple of rookie mistakes by not sanding in some areas quite as well as I should but still come out ok. Other problem, not reading instructions well enough, haven't been rubbing off the oil 30-40 mins later, now have a tacky residue which I'm having to redissolve and buff out. But other than that its gone ok, learn't some stuff for next time and still finished out looking pretty good.
N
no.1topdog
Guest
Nice one Johnny. Just one more thought, try to apply so little oil so that you don't have anything to rub off in 30-40 minutes. Sticky anything means you have too much on there. Orange peely is not a good look on your stock. Think more like mirror finish, but only take it as far as you find you want to. Some like to see the pores and have a satin like effect (like Andy S in his post above), others (like me) want it all filled in and looking like it's encased in glass.
The best bit about this type of finishing is that if you do scratch it (and you probably will at some time) or it wears a little dull where you hold it, it can be repaired easily in that area without having to do the whole stock/fore-end like you would have to with a lacquer finish.
Good luck! :biggrin: Keep us informed and pictures when you are happy with it.
joe kitson
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- Jul 25, 2012
- Messages
- 281
guys when i said it cost me 400 pounds with tim grenwood that included re chequereding the stock and forend
