- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 627
It might a couple of hours but I'm sure a decent gunsmith will ensure all those bits that needed "hand finishing" were checked and sorted at the same time. If you sent it back its one thing, then another etc.
The H bolt in a Perazzi is made of a steel that is softer than the hardened steel of the lugs on the monoblock. The idea is that the H bolt wears and is cheap and easily replaced. So actually the H bolt should be exactly as you say it should not be.Are the internals surface hardened? If so then I’d be a bit wary about an H bolt that has its surface filed down. If that exposes non-hardened metal, wear will set in a lot quicker, more so if rubbing against hardened parts.
Gun is new, your suggestion is certainly a sensible one, I know a very skilled gunsmith, in whom I have the utmost confidence, and rather than returning the gun under warranty, I may ask him to look at it.I reckon the Tolerances on the H bolt are pretty tight from the factory. Gun gets shot and the barrel gets pretty hot causing expansion. That heat, albeit it less pronounced will also be causing some expansion in the action as well. So you will then have two interlocking wedge shaped parts of the gun expanding and therefore binding together. When gun cools down then the metal contracts and the top lever works normally again. We are probably talking about a couple of thousandths that needs to be filed off the H block. It’s an easy job for a gunsmith but requires the action to be disassembled so should take ac couple of hours max. I recently had the same problem that you have but with a Miroku. Sent back to Browning via the dealer and was back within a week. Did you buy the gun used or new?
Thankyou for that, could be the easiest and most straightforward solution, although the gun was sparingly lubricated before shooting it.try red brake grease, meant for car brakes it does work good on actions , I use it on my miroku , obviously itsdesigned for use on really hot car brake parts so easily works on a hot action,I use it on the knuckle side faces and bolt,ejectors get light oil .
Your last sentence sums up my feelings pretty accurately-I agree with the analogy of cheap Turkish knock off!!! i was being a little optimistic in thinking that a gun costing less than £1500 would have the pedigree or provenance of one costing upwards of £9-£10k, subconsciously I knew it wasn’t a Perazzi, so it’s shortcomings weren’t too much of a surprise!!The H bolt in a Perazzi is made of a steel that is softer than the hardened steel of the lugs on the monoblock. The idea is that the H bolt wears and is cheap and easily replaced. So actually the H bolt should be exactly as you say it should not be.
I have no idea how the metal used in a cheap Turkish knock off relate to each other... or if they even thought about that?
Actually, there's nothing cheap about the way they are made, but they are cheaper copies.The H bolt in a Perazzi is made of a steel that is softer than the hardened steel of the lugs on the monoblock. The idea is that the H bolt wears and is cheap and easily replaced. So actually the H bolt should be exactly as you say it should not be.
I have no idea how the metal used in a cheap Turkish knock off relate to each other... or if they even thought about that?
Eh?^^ I wish you'd remove the oversize speed check
Never seen one to be fair BUT they are cheap and they are a knock off... Fk knows what is going to happen when the Chinese start to knock out copies of all Marques ... if they aren't already doing so.Actually, there's nothing cheap about the way they are made, but they are cheaper copies.
The fit and finish is excellent and the materials used are of high quality.
If you want to buy a cheap gun, they do sell them, but they make good ones too.
Eh?
There are indeed quite a few gunmakers using that action style.Its wrong to say they are a "knock off". Cheaper sounds about right. I suspect cheaper maybe good enough but each to their own.
Its a "Boss" action which is used (copied) by numerous other high-end gun manufacturers including Perazzi, Zoli etc.
Well the basic one is Beretta SP money, £1500, then a bit more for adjustable, a bit more for grade 4 wood and, a bit more for grade 5 which is special order, mine was £1900.Never seen one to be fair BUT they are cheap and they are a knock off... Fk knows what is going to happen when the Chinese start to knock out copies of all Marques ... if they aren't already doing so.
Last year at the local shooting ground a bit of a crowd had gathered around a lad with a newish Beretta 686 which had jammed. As both barrels had just been fired the gun was deemed safe and various shooters were attempting to open it. I suggested that it was put in the gun rack at the stand and left for 10 minutes or so. After doing this, the gun opened easily. I got the lad to bring it back to the car park where I had my gun First Aid kit in my car. I took off the barrels applied some grease to the knuckles and the bites, re-assembled it and off he went. He came to me later to say the gun had been fine for the rest of the shoot. I have also seen Browning/Miroku's with a similar problem, due to a simple lack of lubrication of the essential bits. I use the Lucas red tacky grease off Ebay, a tub of that at around £7 will last a lifetime. It is designed for boat engine and prop lubrication, it stays where it is put. I use it on all but my semi auto guns.Didn't Beretta have a similar problem with the gun not opening with one of their models, their's was something to do with the lever if I recall
The wrong type of grease can have similar results alsoLast year at the local shooting ground a bit of a crowd had gathered around a lad with a newish Beretta 686 which had jammed. As both barrels had just been fired the gun was deemed safe and various shooters were attempting to open it. I suggested that it was put in the gun rack at the stand and left for 10 minutes or so. After doing this, the gun opened easily. I got the lad to bring it back to the car park where I had my gun First Aid kit in my car. I took off the barrels applied some grease to the knuckles and the bites, re-assembled it and off he went. He came to me later to say the gun had been fine for the rest of the shoot. I have also seen Browning/Miroku's with a similar problem, due to a simple lack of lubrication of the essential bits. I use the Lucas red tacky grease off Ebay, a tub of that at around £7 will last a lifetime. It is designed for boat engine and prop lubrication, it stays where it is put. I use it on all but my semi auto guns.
I guess I must be using the 'right' type then !The wrong type of grease can have similar results also
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