choice of chokes

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I'd like to have the same choke in both barrels, So given that I've got Briley invector+, C, IC, M IM & F chokes with the gun should I just add more of the same or in the long run (ie when I've learned to hit clays consistently) would I gain anything from slowly building up a set of Mullers starting off with say U0, then U1......
Just buy a pair of U2 to begin with. These will kill anything close and most of the further away stuff. Or a pair of U3, will do more of the further away stuff.

 
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Just treated myself to a pair of Muller U1s to replace the C and IM I have in just now, a month or so down the line I'll add a pair of U2s.

 
I ordered a pair of U2s the other day, but still worried that I should have got 2 U3s?!

Should be more worried about pointing the gun in the right place really! ;-)

 
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Think it will be a while before I order the U3s, gives me time to save up, don't see me needing the U4s but have learned to never say never.

 
Can you give me an example Skeet uk :)
A bit of Googling will yield several references.

There was also a recent article in Clay Shooter (the freebee one October 2013 Issue 29) called "Shmokin'!",where MT Chambers talked of the advantages of a bit more choke.

This video isn't the full one sadly, but it shows that while 1/4 choke has the largest useful pattern at 30 yards, it drops off very quickly at 35 and 40 yards. It doesn't quite make it to 1/2 choke, but you can see the Blue coloured discs with 1/2 choke at 35 and 40 yards are MUCH larger, showing a larger useful pattern at those distances.


Most beginner misses are caused by; not enough lead, stopping the gun, poor foot position, general bad technique and poor coaching.

What you are suggesting, is that inexperienced shooters, can break more targets by using open chokes. Experienced shooters can also break targets at greater distances with open chokes, due to their considerable experience...so why don't they use them? 

A beginner who is missing targets with 1/2 choke, but breaking them with cylinder...is "nearly missing them."

By giving the reward of a poor break or chip, with open chokes, is teaching bad sight pictures and incorrect lead.

Should we be teaching people to "nearly miss"?

Half choke is not tight.  It can even be loosened with a suitable cartridge and will stand them in good stead for the longer targets...which they can't just ignore, if they want to build a score and progress.

I would not advocate less than 1/4 for a new sporting shooter (a person who is doing more than "having a try").

Once you have the experience and have learned correct leads for targets, then a more open choke could help if you are "playing the numbers", obviously.  But you wouldn't be using that on a 40 yard, edge on crosser...would you? :)

 
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I ordered a pair of U2s the other day, but still worried that I should have got 2 U3s?!

Should be more worried about pointing the gun in the right place really! ;-)
U2's should be fine for all but the very long stuff.  I use a pair of U2's to decent enough effect.  I am intending on moving to U3's as the norm, but only because I am pushing myself.

 
A bit of Googling will yield several references.

There was also a recent article in Clay Shooter (the freebee one October 2013 Issue 29) called "Shmokin'!",where MT Chambers talked of the advantages of a bit more choke.

This video isn't the full one sadly, but it shows that while 1/4 choke has the largest useful pattern at 30 yards, it drops off very quickly at 35 and 40 yards. It doesn't quite make it to 1/2 choke, but you can see the Blue coloured discs with 1/2 choke at 35 and 40 yards are MUCH larger, showing a larger useful pattern at those distances.


Most beginner misses are caused by; not enough lead, stopping the gun, poor foot position, general bad technique and poor coaching.

What you are suggesting, is that inexperienced shooters, can break more targets by using open chokes. Experienced shooters can also break targets at greater distances with open chokes, due to their considerable experience...so why don't they use them? 

A beginner who is missing targets with 1/2 choke, but breaking them with cylinder...is "nearly missing them."

By giving the reward of a poor break or chip, with open chokes, is teaching bad sight pictures and incorrect lead.

Should we be teaching people to "nearly miss"?

Half choke is not tight.  It can even be loosened with a suitable cartridge and will stand them in good stead for the longer targets...which they can't just ignore, if they want to build a score and progress.

I would not advocate less than 1/4 for a new sporting shooter (a person who is doing more than "having a try").

Once you have the experience and have learned correct leads for targets, then a more open choke could help if you are "playing the numbers", obviously.  But you wouldn't be using that on a 40 yard, edge on crosser...would you? :)
Very interesting and food for thought. Way I'm thinking with my own development is to start open so even if I only chip the clay I know I'm on the right lines, then gradually tighten the chokes in practice as I improve, then when I start entering comps open the chokes up to whatever I find is optimal.

What that short piece of video showed me is that maybe I need to be using a tighter choke at 35/40m which is probably why it didn't matter what I tried I just couldn't break those minis.

Any link to the full video?

 
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Very interesting and food for thought. Way I'm thinking with my own development is to start open so even if I only chip the clay I know I'm on the right lines, then gradually tighten the chokes in practice as I improve, then when I start entering comps open the chokes up to whatever I find is optimal.

What that short piece of video showed me is that maybe I need to be using a tighter choke at 35/40m which is probably why it didn't matter what I tried I just couldn't break those minis.

Any link to the full video?
Sorry, the owners of the full video, I think have it on their site (pay to view).  Unless anyone can can find anther link, or perhaps if Gil Ash can post the full video?

The patterns in the video are for EDGE on clays.  A Mini can easily slip through a loose pattern, from too little choke.

U1's are great.  They are about 6 thou, which is a little under 1/4 but because they are Mullers, should give you good kills at reasonable distances.

I use U1's for skeet, on the odd occasion that I shoot it these days.  As I said, I currently use U2 as the norm, but intend to move up to U3 full time, need another U3!

 
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I shoot 1/2 and 1/2 with fibres, just bought some plastic wad so going up to 1/4 and cyl, working on the theory that you go up a quarter for fibre to plastic, and the bigger spread of cylinder should gain me more than I loose through the pattern. But I am only a C class shot at best, so when I miss, I just miss.

 
I shoot 1/2 and 1/2 with fibres, just bought some plastic wad so going up to 1/4 and cyl, working on the theory that you go up a quarter for fibre to plastic, and the bigger spread of cylinder should gain me more than I loose through the pattern. 
Whose theory is it that you go up a quarter for fibre to plastic? 

And is going from a 1/2 to a 1/4 up or down? 

 
Whose theory is it that you go up a quarter for fibre to plastic? 

And is going from a 1/2 to a 1/4 up or down?
It is an approx rule, usually right. If you use half with fibre, go to 1/4 with plas. Plas shoot tighter in general.

 
I will be shooting fibres tomorrow. No choke change possible. Who cares. Point it in the right place. :)

 
Just buy a pair of U2 to begin with. These will kill anything close and most of the further away stuff. Or a pair of U3, will do more of the further away stuff.
Why not just stick to 1/4 and 1/2? and spend the £130 on more practise? IMO will get you more broken clays than changing chokes............

 
It is an approx rule, usually right. If you use half with fibre, go to 1/4 with plas. Plas shoot tighter in general.
Never knew that, but then I don't shoot fibre much more than once or twice a year

 
Whose theory is it that you go up a quarter for fibre to plastic?

And is going from a 1/2 to a 1/4 up or down?
It's because of the shot cup in the plastic wad it is between the barrel and the shot, so is acting as a tighter choke effectively. I patterned some blue diamonds once and the fibre version did pattern bigger in diameter than the plastic.
If I recall correctly the plastic patterned with a diameter of 1m and the fibre with 1.2m at 25 - 30m I think, can't remember which choke I used but would have been 1/4 or 1/2 as it was a fixed choke Beretta Silver pigeon universal.

 
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