Choke Choice?

Clay, Trap, Skeet Shooting Forum

Help Support Clay, Trap, Skeet Shooting Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Chris-88

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2015
Messages
50
Ive recently purchased a Miroku MK38 Grade 5 with fixed chokes (full and 3/4) I'm thinking about getting the barrels modified to multi chokes and will be looking to get teague chokes. My question is basically that the gun smith gave me two options which were for either short chokes or long chokes. Im not really sure what the difference is and just wanted to see what everyones opinion/recommendation would be. Its £100 different in price to have the longer ones.

Cheers

 
Ive recently purchased a Miroku MK38 Grade 5 with fixed chokes (full and 3/4) I'm thinking about getting the barrels modified to multi chokes and will be looking to get teague chokes. My question is basically that the gun smith gave me two options which were for either short chokes or long chokes. Im not really sure what the difference is and just wanted to see what everyones opinion/recommendation would be. Its £100 different in price to have the longer ones.

Cheers
The day Teague or anyone else for that matter can distinguish a short/long pattern on paper or break signature  :rolleyes:  is the day I believe there is a quantifiable difference, there isn't. If choke length was commensurate with quality of pattern thrown all the more expensive makes such as Perazzi and boutique Beretta's would have had long chokes but in reality only the last inch or two is tapered, there is in fact no reason why a fixed barrel shouldn't be choked starting just in front of the cones  ;)  leading all the way to the tip of the barrel, just think how few pellets would be damaged then. It's all marketing nonsense. 

Having said that you'll find long Teagues easier to market and sell the gun.

 
so your not convinced then Hamid. ..

 
ive just had my mk38 choked 1/2 1/2   fixed  ,     best move I ever made  ,   remove all distractions  and variables ,   concentrate on target only ,     £168  total .     Teague .

 
There you have it then. Decide which choking system is best for you, spend that 3 figure sum on getting the work done, then ............er, sell it ?

Can I suggest that perhaps you follow the 'docs' example, get Westley's, sorry Teagues to open both barrels to 1/2 choke and then shoot the gun for some 12 months. You could be pleasantly suprised and still be over £200 in pocket !

 
Whatever you decide to purchase, it may well be worthwhile doubling up on one or two chokes at the same time as your having the gun altered. It might prove cheaper to get them included rather than buying them at a later date. 

Other than that - leave it, shoot it and get to know it  :D

 
I had a 3800 Trap eased to 12 and 16 points of choke many years ago (on Nigel T's advice to a 'B' class shooter). It would kill anything on a sporting layout (pilot error permitting).

Now I use Teague (long)  multi chokes -  but only because I use the same gun for clays (3/8) and serious pheasants (3/4).

If you don't need the variation, then take the earlier advice and simply have the chokes opened out a bit. 

 
ive just had my mk38 choked 1/2 1/2   fixed  ,     best move I ever made  ,   remove all distractions  and variables ,   concentrate on target only ,     £168  total .     Teague .
agree 100% I would suggest if you go for Teague spend the extra on long chokes. It's less likely you'll regret it later than if you try to save money on short chokes

 
I sometimes wonder if everybody else goes to the shoots I used to go to? Maybe all shoots throw all their targets in the 20 to 30 yard range now?

Cylinder for that 60 yard, edge-on crosser? Maybe Full choke for that slow incomer that lands 10 feet infront of you? It's what Sporting is about, and what multichokes were invented for.

Compromising at half and half is just that, a compromise. Neither here or there. I would rather be able to select the correct choke for the job in hand. 15 seconds and you are done with a bit of nimble fingered fiddling. Too much like hard work for some perhaps?

Of course, your Quarter choke will break anything seen on a Sporting Course, Yada! Yada! Yada! Yawn! Yawn!...................... (Shhhhh! No it won't - not consistently!) :wink:

 
I just shoot my Mk38 trap gun as it came, 3/4 and full for everything but I only shoot 24gm RC2's in 8 shot. It's just a grade one but handles just right for me.

I also have a Grade5 Mk38 which has long Teague fitted which I bought second hand and the tightest chokes which came with the gun was a pair of 3/8ths, it's a very nice gun to look at but I cannot shoot it as well as my grade one as it does not "feel" as good between the hands.

We have some good long clays where I shoot and 1/2 choke in my view, is too open to kill them consistently.

 
My advice would be one of two options either get it taken out to 3/8 and 5/8

or long teauges choice is yours 

I use the long teauges and they are awesome and the back up service and 

support has been great from Ivan and the team 

 
My 38 has long teagues in it, and they fit the bill.

to be honest though, I bought it with them in. I previously had a grade 1 MK38 fixed 3/4 and full and struggled shooting skeet with it, so, bought a grade 3 with a full set of teagues and now just have the one gun for everything.

my opinion is that if your wanting a truly multi use gun, that you can use for skeet right through to trap or high pheasants, then get multi chokes.

if its just for one or two disciplines, then find a happy medium and have the current chokes opened up. :)

 
I sometimes wonder if everybody else goes to the shoots I used to go to? Maybe all shoots throw all their targets in the 20 to 30 yard range now?

Cylinder for that 60 yard, edge-on crosser? Maybe Full choke for that slow incomer that lands 10 feet infront of you? It's what Sporting is about, and what multichokes were invented for.

Compromising at half and half is just that, a compromise. Neither here or there. I would rather be able to select the correct choke for the job in hand. 15 seconds and you are done with a bit of nimble fingered fiddling. Too much like hard work for some perhaps?

Of course, your Quarter choke will break anything seen on a Sporting Course, Yada! Yada! Yada! Yawn! Yawn!...................... (Shhhhh! No it won't - not consistently!) :wink:
Yes, I think I have followed you at a few Sporting shoots, you were the chap who was blaming his choice of choke whenever he missed a target, yes I remember you now  !     :smile:

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Personally I'd go 1/2 1/2 fixed but if you do go multi save the £100 and get the short ones. Will be no real

world difference to long ones except you have more money for shooting!

 
Yes, I think I have followed you at a few Sporting shoots, you were the chap who was blaming his choice of choke whenever he missed a target, yes I remember you now  !     :smile:
You've missed the point entirely Westley.

I'm the Bloke that always had the RIGHT choke in my gun, but not necessarily pointed in the right direction! :smile:

 
In the simplest terms, I conclude that the only thing that breaks close clays is a gun pointed in exactly the right place. No amount of opening up choke or wide spreading cartridges seems to help. Very long crossers will need some choke / decent cartridge pattern to break consistently though. This is why half choke does work pretty well all round.

 

Latest posts

Back
Top