Shotgun Cabinet Information

[ClayKiller]

Hi,

I am sorting out my 1-3 shotgun cabinet whilst waiting for a shotgun certificate to be granted.

Points from the Home Office Firearms Security Guide:

https://assets.publishing.service.g...achment_data/file/117794/security_leaflet.pdf
- "Shotguns must be stored securely to prevent, so far as is reasonably practicable, unauthorised people taking or using them."
- "Any security device should be securely fixed to the fabric of the building."
- "Wherever possible, it should be fixed to a wall that is built from bricks or concrete blocks or to the floor."

It is not reasonably practical for me to install my cabinet to a solid wall or floor due to the construction of my house.

I have installed my shotgun cabinet in an upstairs cupboard and securely anchored it in a corner to the wooden floor. I believe (but can't guarantee) two of the four screws are fastened to the floor joists. Additionally, the back of the safe is firmly secured to a plasterboard wall with four heavy-duty hollow wall anchor bolts.

My residence is located in a low-crime area (Level 1), and I mostly work from home. I'm curious if anyone else has placed their cabinet in a similar manner and encountered any issues during inspections.

I am also wondering about the inspection process itself. I've heard that inspectors may pull on the safe to ensure its security. I have tested this and the cabinet does not move when pulled on, it's pretty secure in that respect. Do I need to unlock the safe for the inspectors to carry out additional checks or can it remain securely locked during the inspection?

 

[Martinj]

I recall the firearms officer pulling on my cabinet but not very hard.

Before we entered the room where it is kept I closed the door to the room on him so I could get the keys without him seeing my hiding place, he didn't like that much but I thought it was fair. I let him look inside the cabinet, no reason not to.

If he doesn't like your fixing methods I guess you'll have to think again. I have heard it suggested that people can fix the cabinet to a chimney breast in the loft, although I can't think that this would be much good for the gun, a.) because of heat from the fire if lit b.) possible condensation or drying out caused by temperature changes in summer and winter.

Things that they do like are burglar alarms and dogs, if you have either or both they are points in your favour

 

[Luke_(NL)]

Do I need to unlock the safe for the inspectors to carry out additional checks or can it remain securely locked during the inspection?

Why would it have to remain "securely locked", if the safe is empty - given that you are still waiting for your certificate?

 

[Timfish]

A few years back I bought a bigger cabinet and told local Firearms about it. It was in an upstairs bedroom and bolted to a wooden floor and a stone wall. They sent a very substantial female police person to check it.

She put her very, very substantial rear against my cabinet and wiggled….The cabinet moved ! I tried very hard not to crease up laughing (Apologies for the bad taste).

I was told to buy some bigger wall bolts. She returned a fortnight later and the cabinet stayed put this time.

As far as opening goes; if they want you to open it I suggest you do so….

 

[k80ben]

In my area 9/10 times this wood fail. The plaster board is a complete no and the wooden floor the same.

You have gone against what’s advised and looked for validation. Hope your the 1 that gets through

 

[ClayKiller]

Why would it have to remain "securely locked", if the safe is empty - given that you are still waiting for your certificate?

Even though I am waiting for my certificate I am treating it as if it's stocked, that way I get used to it and, highly unlikely, but no one gets an opportunity to have my keys cut.

 

[ClayKiller]

In my area 9/10 times this wood fail. The plaster board is a complete no and the wooden floor the same.

You have gone against what’s advised and looked for validation. Hope your the 1 that gets through

I've followed the provided instructions to install it as best as I can. I'll inform you about the results.

If it doesn't work, my backup plan is to use a gun clamp in the attic on the gable end wall. Although I believe it's less secure and not good for the health of the shotgun, I'm confident it will pass.

 

[lh8611]

It is not reasonably practical for me to install my cabinet to a solid wall or floor due to the construction of my house

Is your house a new build property. If so do you know if it is either of timber frame, or brick and block (dot and dab) construction? If it is either of these there are ways to solidly and safely secure a cabinet to one of the external walls (inside the house of course).

For brick and block construction you can use chemical anchors, or there are bespoke dry lining fittings (I used these for my cabinet). Traditional expanding bolts tend to crack or split the block and crush the plasterboard.

For timber frame your looking at having to find the supporting studwork behind the plasterboard and would need to secure directly into that using something like coach bolts. The issue would be that the battons and noggins (stud work) would likely be further apart than the securing holes in your cabinet.

In either case it might be worth giving your FLO a call to ask what they would consider acceptable. Also ask around at your local ground/club, it's possible there might be someone there who has had a similar issue who can give you some pointers.

 

[Aeron]

When I got a visit he just tapped the top of the cabinet and said " nice , the same one as mine" and that was it .

 

[Geffg]

I was in similar situation and had no external walls suitable only a cupboard internally etc. Fastened it securely to the floor and into the wall. When the officer came round and checked it, she said alls we ask is it’s to the best you can and loads of people are having same issues due to new build constructions. As long as it was secure she was happy.
Not sure where you are but this was Merseyside police.

 

[philpot]

I would say fastening to plasterboard is a none starter and if you do have solid walls in the house somewhere, I suggest you look how practical it will be to move the cabinet. Some areas are more strict than others but for me, it has to be on a solid wall.

 

[MartynB]

One easy way to secure your cabinet is to lay it on its back and drill some pairs of holes in it to correspond to two or three of the joists supporting a floor I think they’re at about 14” centres so you’d have no problem locating 3 or 4 joists over the length of a cabinet . Then fasten it down with hex head coach screws with a penny washer under the head . You could do that in the attic easily , it would be rock solid .

 

[Withnail]

As MartynB describes above, I installed my cabinet flat on the floor in a built-in double wardrobe in my new build property. Very secure with six bolts into the floor joists. This passed inspection no questions asked.

 

[Genghis]

I've followed the provided instructions to install it as best as I can. I'll inform you about the results.

If it doesn't work, my backup plan is to use a gun clamp in the attic on the gable end wall. Although I believe it's less secure and not good for the health of the shotgun, I'm confident it will pass.

I have my cabinet in the loft. I keep a big handful of silica gel sachets in the bottom (the kind you get for free when buying trainers, etc.) and I’ve never had any issues with condensation. It goes through a big temperate change from summer to winter, but holds up just fine.

If you go this route, one question the FEO will raise is whether you will make the effort to go back up into the loft every time you get back from shooting. He was happy with me giving a firm ‘yes’. Tbf I installed a pull down ladder and it only takes about 30 seconds to get up there.

 

[Stiggers]

Hi,

I am sorting out my 1-3 shotgun cabinet whilst waiting for a shotgun certificate to be granted.

Points from the Home Office Firearms Security Guide:

https://assets.publishing.service.g...achment_data/file/117794/security_leaflet.pdf
- "Shotguns must be stored securely to prevent, so far as is reasonably practicable, unauthorised people taking or using them."
- "Any security device should be securely fixed to the fabric of the building."
- "Wherever possible, it should be fixed to a wall that is built from bricks or concrete blocks or to the floor."

It is not reasonably practical for me to install my cabinet to a solid wall or floor due to the construction of my house.

I have installed my shotgun cabinet in an upstairs cupboard and securely anchored it in a corner to the wooden floor. I believe (but can't guarantee) two of the four screws are fastened to the floor joists. Additionally, the back of the safe is firmly secured to a plasterboard wall with four heavy-duty hollow wall anchor bolts.

My residence is located in a low-crime area (Level 1), and I mostly work from home. I'm curious if anyone else has placed their cabinet in a similar manner and encountered any issues during inspections.

I am also wondering about the inspection process itself. I've heard that inspectors may pull on the safe to ensure its security. I have tested this and the cabinet does not move when pulled on, it's pretty secure in that respect. Do I need to unlock the safe for the inspectors to carry out additional checks or can it remain securely locked during the inspection?

Have you installed your cabinet before the FEO visit?.

I spoke with my FEO over the phone prior to his visit and took the opportunity to share my researched knowledge on installation and my intended installation point. I thought this might impress him both in the conversation through to gaining his approval at the forthcoming visit….

…his response was “what if I don’t agree with your choice of place?”. I took that as a warning and held off until I received his approval.

Plaster board is a no, no. There is no way you can achieve the correct torque to the bolts before snapping the board, besides which the cavity behind is a fail. You mention anchor bolts - are these into brick or breeze block?. I couldn’t use anchor bolts as they would shatter the breeze block, so used 12mm studding with resin adhesive - perfect.

Apologies if I‘ve misunderstood any of your original post.

 

[Stiggers]

I have my cabinet in the loft. I keep a big handful of silica gel sachets in the bottom (the kind you get for free when buying trainers, etc.) and I’ve never had any issues with condensation. It goes through a big temperate change from summer to winter, but holds up just fine.

If you go this route, one question the FEO will raise is whether you will make the effort to go back up into the loft every time you get back from shooting. He was happy with me giving a firm ‘yes’. Tbf I installed a pull down ladder and it only takes about 30 seconds to get up there.

That’s the issue - “can you convince the FEO you can be arsed”

 

[Genghis]

That’s the issue - “can you convince the FEO you can be arsed”

He was happy enough to take me at my word. Perhaps he would have been less willing if I had a less accessible loft.

 

[Oldblaster]

Hi,

I am sorting out my 1-3 shotgun cabinet whilst waiting for a shotgun certificate to be granted.

Points from the Home Office Firearms Security Guide:

https://assets.publishing.service.g...achment_data/file/117794/security_leaflet.pdf
- "Shotguns must be stored securely to prevent, so far as is reasonably practicable, unauthorised people taking or using them."
- "Any security device should be securely fixed to the fabric of the building."
- "Wherever possible, it should be fixed to a wall that is built from bricks or concrete blocks or to the floor."

It is not reasonably practical for me to install my cabinet to a solid wall or floor due to the construction of my house.

I have installed my shotgun cabinet in an upstairs cupboard and securely anchored it in a corner to the wooden floor. I believe (but can't guarantee) two of the four screws are fastened to the floor joists. Additionally, the back of the safe is firmly secured to a plasterboard wall with four heavy-duty hollow wall anchor bolts.

My residence is located in a low-crime area (Level 1), and I mostly work from home. I'm curious if anyone else has placed their cabinet in a similar manner and encountered any issues during inspections.

I am also wondering about the inspection process itself. I've heard that inspectors may pull on the safe to ensure its security. I have tested this and the cabinet does not move when pulled on, it's pretty secure in that respect. Do I need to unlock the safe for the inspectors to carry out additional checks or can it remain securely locked during the inspection?

Just a note, you are advised not to carry the keys on your person, they must be hidden in the house. You cannot allow anyone to know where the keys are even your wife or partner unless they are certificate holders.

 

[MartynB]

Just a note, you are advised not to carry the keys on your person, they must be hidden in the house. You cannot allow anyone to know where the keys are even your wife or partner unless they are certificate holders.

The FEO who came around last renewal advised me to fasten any cabinet keys up in a solid keysafe with a combination . I bought a heavy duty unit , cost about £50 In the last house it was screwed to a masonry wall , in this house it’s screwed inside a bedroom cabinet . Just another level of security . However since moving I’ve now got an electronic combination on the gun safe and the key only accesses the sec 1 ammo and rifle bolts .

 

[Oldblaster]

The FEO who came around last renewal advised me to fasten any cabinet keys up in a solid keysafe with a combination . I bought a heavy duty unit , cost about £50 In the last house it was screwed to a masonry wall , in this house it’s screwed inside a bedroom cabinet . Just another level of security . However since moving I’ve now got an electronic combination on the gun safe and the key only accesses the sec 1 ammo and rifle bolts .
View attachment 10455

Cracked it for sure!