Chokes for sporting

John12 · May 22, 2017

Hi All,

Finally got my SGC and a new Beretta 686. It is a multi-choke gun and the choke system seems confusing so I want to check i am doing the right thing.

I have used the following chokes:

Top barrel: 3 notches (I understand this equates to "modified" or "1/2 choke")

Bottom barrel: 4 notches (I understand this equates to "improved cylinder" or 1/4 choke)

Does this makes sense as a setup for ESP and is my understanding correct that this means the top barrel will have a tighter pattern and shoot further and that the bottom barrel will have a wider pattern and is better at a closer range?

I normally always shoot top barrel first (setting marked one dot), so not sure it makes sense to have different chokes as the first is not necessarily the further one, but I guess it gives you the option to switch in case the first is a rabbit and you then want to shoort bottom barrel first.

Hope that makes sense, if someone could confirm I have understood it correctly that would be much appreciated!

westley · May 22, 2017

Oh yes, I can confirm it for you, you are spot on correct, even down to worrying more about which barrel to shoot first. Can I suggest that you shoot the gun as is, for a while and then you can search for another 3 or 4 dot choke, whichever you choose. This will enable you to shoot 2 equal chokes, so it will not matter which barrel you shoot first ! It does make life a whole lot easier. You will note that I have refrained from suggesting WHICH 2 chokes to choose !

John12 · May 22, 2017

Thanks Westley, glad to hear I got it right.

It makes a lot of sense to uncomplicate life and to have the same in both, will see how I get on. At least I now know I got the theory right, just need to work on the actual shooting

.

Will Hewland · May 22, 2017

One dot on a beretta is the bottom barrel I believe. "Two for top"

But try and remember that chokes were developed many many years ago when cartridges were rubbish. You never need very tight chokes for Sporting with modern shells and I recommend fitting two of the same so you can forget them and just shoot.

westley · May 22, 2017

John12 said:
Thanks Westley, glad to hear I got it right.

It makes a lot of sense to uncomplicate life and to have the same in both, will see how I get on. At least I now know I got the theory right, just need to work on the actual shooting .

Of course it does. Having sorted out the chokes and fitted 2 the same, you could then buy 2 different brands of cartridge, one for each barrel and see how that works for you !

Then again, stick with plan A and work on the actual shooting.

Traptech · May 22, 2017

I've shot half and half in my sporters for years, same with shells - 24g 7s usually.

The less i have to think about fiddling with chokes and cartridges the better so I can just enjoy the shooting. If I miss I know it's my fault and nothing else.

Doctor Lecter · May 22, 2017

agree with above post half half enjoy .

westley · May 23, 2017

westley said:
You will note that I have refrained from suggesting WHICH 2 chokes to choose !

Now you can see why !

John12 · May 23, 2017

Thanks for the advice all and for clarifying the correct top / bottom barrel indicator.

Just ordered another 1/2 choke from GMK, think it will be better than 1/4 whilst on the learning curve.

Aim to forget about chokes from here on!

ChrisPackham · May 23, 2017

You would be surprised how little difference there is between these two chokes, I don't see how anyone would miss due using one or other in reality

Nick Selby · May 27, 2017

John12 said:
Hi All,

Finally got my SGC and a new Beretta 686. It is a multi-choke gun and the choke system seems confusing so I want to check i am doing the right thing.

I have used the following chokes:

Top barrel: 3 notches (I understand this equates to "modified" or "1/2 choke")

Bottom barrel: 4 notches (I understand this equates to "improved cylinder" or 1/4 choke)

Does this makes sense as a setup for ESP and is my understanding correct that this means the top barrel will have a tighter pattern and shoot further and that the bottom barrel will have a wider pattern and is better at a closer range?

I normally always shoot top barrel first (setting marked one dot), so not sure it makes sense to have different chokes as the first is not necessarily the further one, but I guess it gives you the option to switch in case the first is a rabbit and you then want to shoort bottom barrel first.

Hope that makes sense, if someone could confirm I have understood it correctly that would be much appreciated!

I had read on here that it is better to shoot bottom barrel first due to muzzle flip if shooting top first but might be wrong on this... I'm sure someone will correct me if so.

metho · Nov 16, 2024

John12 said:
Hi All,

Finally got my SGC and a new Beretta 686. It is a multi-choke gun and the choke system seems confusing so I want to check i am doing the right thing.

I have used the following chokes:

Top barrel: 3 notches (I understand this equates to "modified" or "1/2 choke")

Bottom barrel: 4 notches (I understand this equates to "improved cylinder" or 1/4 choke)

Does this makes sense as a setup for ESP and is my understanding correct that this means the top barrel will have a tighter pattern and shoot further and that the bottom barrel will have a wider pattern and is better at a closer range?

I normally always shoot top barrel first (setting marked one dot), so not sure it makes sense to have different chokes as the first is not necessarily the further one, but I guess it gives you the option to switch in case the first is a rabbit and you then want to shoort bottom barrel first.

Hope that makes sense, if someone could confirm I have understood it correctly that would be much appreciated!

Mine is fixed bottom barrel first that's one less thing think about never know myself which is best choke in each barrel mite have to go for the like for like in each

ScotMac · Nov 16, 2024

Can’t go far wrong with 3/8 in both barrels. I can kill most stuff with them…when I point the gun in the right direction.

Southern · Nov 16, 2024

1/4 and 3/8, bottom barrel first here….

Russ Humphries · Nov 17, 2024

Pay for a lesson or two really early. Like now. Unlearning bad habits is harder than learning good ones.

Bottom barrel first is prefered ... i will reduce flip on the second shot... it makes a small difference but I do notice it if I need to be 'oh crap' quick on a second shot.

Another vote for either 1/4 or 3/8 or maybe 1/2 in both barells. Decent cartridge of 24 or 28 gramms of 7.5 or 8s.

Practice straight aways.

Practice slightly quartering.

Don't fuss the more complex ones for a while. Many targets you see will be pretty close to straight away to 1/4ing away from you and getting the 'base score' down is the righ way to start.

Start practicing 50 shells a session but REALLY practice don't just shoot.

Look at feet stance (lots on the web)
Look at really LOOKING at the clay not just seeing it (also lots on the web)

Do that for a good while. First things first. Pay for lessons. They will pay for themselves in shells and clays wasted esp when starting.

NB: I shoot mid 70x100 on a competition course so Im no AAA but I stand by the above.

MOST of all. Enjoy it.

Russ Humphries · Nov 17, 2024

ChrisPackham said:
You would be surprised how little difference there is between these two chokes, I don't see how anyone would miss due using one or other in reality

Yeah - I miss by yards not fractions of a pattern

lol

k80ben · Nov 17, 2024

ChrisPackham said:
You would be surprised how little difference there is between these two chokes, I don't see how anyone would miss due using one or other in reality

This is quite incorrect

k80ben · Nov 17, 2024

Russ Humphries said:
Pay for a lesson or two really early. Like now. Unlearning bad habits is harder than learning good ones.

Bottom barrel first is prefered ... i will reduce flip on the second shot... it makes a small difference but I do notice it if I need to be 'oh crap' quick on a second shot.

Another vote for either 1/4 or 3/8 or maybe 1/2 in both barells. Decent cartridge of 24 or 28 gramms of 7.5 or 8s.

Practice straight aways.

Practice slightly quartering.

Don't fuss the more complex ones for a while. Many targets you see will be pretty close to straight away to 1/4ing away from you and getting the 'base score' down is the righ way to start.

Start practicing 50 shells a session but REALLY practice don't just shoot.

Look at feet stance (lots on the web)
Look at really LOOKING at the clay not just seeing it (also lots on the web)

Do that for a good while. First things first. Pay for lessons. They will pay for themselves in shells and clays wasted esp when starting.

NB: I shoot mid 70x100 on a competition course so Im no AAA but I stand by the above.

MOST of all. Enjoy it.

Just to help you with advice. Difference between top n bottom barrel is zero. With true gun fit there is no muzzle jump.

Stance is over talked about and on sporting will be the last thing addressed

MartynB · Nov 17, 2024

I always wonder why people who have two different choke constrictions in a sporting or game gun will say shoot the bottom barrel first when they have a barrel selector , surely the whole object of the set up is to use the gun to the best advantage on a target or targets , depending on their flight .

Martinj · Tuesday at 10:45 AM

MartynB said:
I always wonder why people who have two different choke constrictions in a sporting or game gun will say shoot the bottom barrel first when they have a barrel selector , surely the whole object of the set up is to use the gun to the best advantage on a target or targets , depending on their flight .

I agree if you are using two different chokes. I will use the barrel selector on most stands, usually selecting the tighter choke for the longer target or, sometimes selecting the open choke for the trickier target. It takes but a second to switch and if it adds confidence, its a second well spent.

Chokes for sporting

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