Barrel touch up, burnish stuff.

[RussP]

Morning,my old 682 gold E has the blue rubbed off where the forend has been replaced about a million times, I was going to touch it up with the above, and some very small areas where it’s worn, is this advisable? I mean if I mess it up I can have it all refinished. Anyone done this, I have watched YouTube doing the whole thing, not touch ups. I have removed cleaned and oiled the ejectors, with new springs as they were tired. Very satisfyig.

cheers

 

[lh8611]

Morning,my old 682 gold E has the blue rubbed off where the forend has been replaced about a million times, I was going to touch it up with the above, and some very small areas where it’s worn, is this advisable? I mean if I mess it up I can have it all refinished. Anyone done this, I have watched YouTube doing the whole thing, not touch ups. I have removed cleaned and oiled the ejectors, with new springs as they were tired. Very satisfyig.

cheers

I'm not sure which product your refering to, but I've have some (very) limited experience with birchwood Casey cold blue/touch up. The results have been varied to say the least. I think as well as the product used, the quality and possibly surface of the steel it's applied to matters aswell.

For example, I've used the birchwood Casey Presto cold blue pen to cover up the marks underneath the forend on my ATA SP with good effect. The finish on the gun is Matt blue/ phosphate black and the cold blue took really well without too many applications and is a really good match. You can't see it at all.

On the other hand I had some scratches on brand new Miroku barrels (2 weeks old). These were caused by my loving wife's wedding ring( it was her first time shooting- I shouldn't have let her use my nice gun). Having previously had success with the birchwood Casey on the ATA I tried using it on the Miroku barrels. It didn't take anywhere nearly aswell and ended up causing a splodge/patch of discoloration that was clearly visible. I'm not sure is this is due to a better quality steel with higher chrome content having been used or because the surface was highly polished. Either way it looked a mess and ultimately I had the barrels refinished professionally.

For me a 682 is a nice gun which more than likely has quality steel used for the barrels. I'd treat it to a professional refinish rather than risking less than perfect results.

 

[RussP]

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. It’s actually beretta black burnish.

 

[Luke_(NL)]

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. It’s actually beretta black burnish.

Wondering whether its application is for the 'blued' barrels, as opposed to the more 'modern' matted barrels.

- EDIT- found it, but no "how-to" instructions, no "before and after" pictures to be found. The web states on an ancient forum post that the "matte finish" is actually blueing over bead blasted finish, but I wonder. To me the surface blueing of an old 686 looks very different to that of say a black DT11 and I doubt they both result from the same chemical process. The modern day matte looks more like bruniton but I've not seen or read any sources that confirm this.

 

[lh8611]

Wondering whether its application is for the 'blued' barrels, as opposed to the more 'modern' matted barrels.

- EDIT- found it, but no "how-to" instructions, no "before and after" pictures to be found. The web states on an ancient forum post that the "matte finish" is actually blueing over bead blasted finish, but I wonder. To me the surface blueing of an old 686 looks very different to that of say a black DT11 and I doubt they both result from the same chemical process. The modern day matte looks more like bruniton but I've not seen or read any sources that confirm this.

As I understand it there are several ways to achieve different finishes with hot bluing/blacking. The bluing itself is a chemical process that changes the surface layer of the metal. These depend on the level of polishing carried out on the metal prior to dipping in the bluing tanks. As you mentioned bead blasting prior to dipping can create a matt black finish, where as highly polishing the surface can result in a high gloss mirror like surface. The treatments are the same, but the processes and preparations are slightly different and can produce significantly different end results. I think this would allow a manufacturer to achieve different finishes for different guns utilising the same equipment and chemicals and as such represents an economy of scale. As I understand this is the most commonly used finish on the majority or modern over under shotguns that utilise silver solder /brazing to join barrels and ribs.

In addition to this there is rust bluing which is still a chemical reaction, but a different process and is more often seen on more traditional guns that have soft/lead solder ribs.

And to finish there are coatings/coverings such as cerakote/camo wraps etc.

 

[westley]

By what you are saying the damage to the barrels is inside the forend area anyway. I have had reasonable results on small marks with the Abbey cold blue gel. It also worked very well on a scratched rib, caused by a gun rack. The secret is the preparation, the surface to be blued MUST be oil and grease free. I have used methylated spirit or nail polish remover ( acetone)prior to applying the gel. A tub of gel is under £10 and is worth a try.

 

[RussP]

By what you are saying the damage to the barrels is inside the forend area anyway. I have had reasonable results on small marks with the Abbey cold blue gel. It also worked very well on a scratched rib, caused by a gun rack. The secret is the preparation, the surface to be blued MUST be oil and grease free. I have used methylated spirit or nail polish remover ( acetone)prior to applying the gel. A tub of gel is under £10 and is worth a try.

Thanks, I”ll pick up some. I have seen that it must be free of contamination and warm water to neutralise the prices, repeat for desired colour. Cheers everyone

i”ll have it redone professionally at some point.

 

[westley]

Thanks, I”ll pick up some. I have seen that it must be free of contamination and warm water to neutralise the prices, repeat for desired colour. Cheers everyone

i”ll have it redone professionally at some point.

IF you go for a full re blacking job, I would suggest Wisemans of Cannock. My Westley Richards was done by them, along with the 'furniture' (trigger guard, bottom plate and top lever). Not the cheapest but it was done in 1988 and still looks as good today.

 

[Bavarian]

I used this product to Touch up my pistol's slide quite well:
https://ballistol.de/shop/en/products/all-things-mechanical/weapon-care/72/quick-bluing

 

[SpanielLover]

I used this product to Touch up my pistol's slide quite well:
https://ballistol.de/shop/en/products/all-things-mechanical/weapon-care/72/quick-bluing

Have used that too and found it pretty good and invisible afterwards, Bit scary how it turns white before you wipe it off.. theres a video online showing how to use it

 

[RussP]

IF you go for a full re blacking job, I would suggest Wisemans of Cannock. My Westley Richards was done by them, along with the 'furniture' (trigger guard, bottom plate and top lever). Not the cheapest but it was done in 1988 and still looks as good today.

So I was a bit bored so I had a go. I’m quite pleased as it disguises the blemishes and draws the eye less. It’s quite hard to get the deepness of the original black, takes 6-7 runs of the process then one needs to polish to get a matching sheen. 0000 steel wool or a 3m very fine pad. Or if you have access to 6000 grit w/d which I will try next time where the surface needs to be slightly flatted where folks have dinged the monoblock mounting the barrels. Quite happy for now.

 

[westley]

I have stuck some black gorilla tape to my barrels, inside the forend to try and prevent similar damage. I used acetone to clean the metal first. I have done the same with my air rifle, on the parts that could rub off the shooting sticks etc.