Recoil Pads (from Blaser F3)

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Correct, but it is an imperfect result usually. Depends how bothered you are about aeshetiks, asthettik, asthests.. looks.

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My reason for contacting Isis is because I am aware of `bounce` when my gun recoils these days. I wondered why I was noticing it more lately. The kickeez I have is 5 years old. Apparently Sorbathane pads deteriorate over time and get worse.

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Mine is a few years old too on the PFS stock and I do believe in noticing more bounce lately, will put a Green Isis on next and luckily the thickness doesn't have to be an exact match to the current one as the PFS is adjustable for length :) .

 
Have you not done that scientific test yet?
Just back from the laboratory and it's a very close thing indeed. The GI bounces once ( 2 beats) the KE also 2 distinct beats but a minuscule third flop that has no energy and could well be due to the age of the thing.

 
Hi Hamid,

So what are you doing? Holding a gun vertically, barrels facing up- and dropping the gun from a precise duplicated height, so that the recoil pad hits a concrete floor. Then observing the reactions??

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Hi Hamid,

So what are you doing? Holding a gun vertically, barrels facing up- and dropping the gun from a precise duplicated height, so that the recoil pad hits a concrete floor. Then observing the reactions??

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Woooah, you're confusing me with someone with an ology. No mate, to be honest that would reveal nowt with either gun as both have a shock absorber built in so then you're going to get into which absorbs more energy before the remainder is taken up by the pad. Besides the Zoli is heavier to begin with not to mention the fact that the PFS tension is infinitely adjustable.

What I did was try and test pad bounce with a hammer. Holding the gun in my left hand just below the pad with the barrels pointing downwards but not touching the floor, I kept letting a heavy hammer fall onto different parts of the pads to get an overall impression. Holding it by the pad is key as it prevents the shock absorbers from any movement.

I have in the past done what you suggested but to make the mech give at all it's necessary to drop the gun from more than a few inches and despite being the serial abuser of guns that I am, I'd rather we used Matt or Ed's guns for this sort of thing.

 
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Thanks H; but i think that is a tad unreliable..

The Isis guy told me that these tests are not perfect, but if you do a hammer test, you need to have the pad removed and placed on a solid surface( I assume). Then, you hit it with a hammer and try and NOT let it bounce back. While not measurable, the feeling of resisting the bounce will tell you a lot. The better pad will feel `dead` while a worse one will be like hitting a spring. Matter of degree of course..

Cheers,

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I have in the past done what you suggested but to make the mech give at all it's necessary to drop the gun from more than a few inches and despite being the serial abuser of guns that I am, I'd rather we used Matt or Ed's guns for this sort of thing.
Why my gun... she's very sensitive you know.

 
Thanks H; but i think that is a tad unreliable..

The Isis guy told me that these tests are not perfect, but if you do a hammer test, you need to have the pad removed and placed on a solid surface( I assume). Then, you hit it with a hammer and try and NOT let it bounce back. While not measurable, the feeling of resisting the bounce will tell you a lot. The better pad will feel `dead` while a worse one will be like hitting a spring. Matter of degree of course..

Cheers,

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That makes sense, for what it's worth the GI feels more dead.

 
Will................Just put it on and use it. They are fantastic ...trust me.

If you are going to sand it to fit make sure you protect the wood by wrapping the black tape around the edge where the wood fits pad. It is easy if your sander is good. :D

 
You'll all need those little reflex hammers that doctors carry.

 
It's safer to scribe the pad after screwing it to the stock, then remove the pad before sanding, one slip and it's o' ****. You can finish it off with coarse sand paper and then fine.

It's easy material to finish off, I just kept testing it for eveness around the stock, then you can tighten the screws up and if you need to you can give it a final check to make sure it looks OK.

 
Mike........we don't do safe.......we do easy and accurate for a perfect fit and a perfect fit is with the pad on.

:))))))))

 
Mike........we don't do safe.......we do easy and accurate for a perfect fit and a perfect fit is with the pad on.

:))))))))
I agree your method is the best and is used by most gunsmiths, but I did it the other way so that my original pad can be replaced at any time without having to sand it to fit.

 
If I remember the ISIS green pad is quite a lot larger, well it was compared to the Browning pad on my gun, and need quite a bit being removed, which I found was easier to mark around and cut down to nearly the right size before final fitting with the pad in place and the stock protected by tape.

I went for a 11mm pad as I had found the stock slightly too long and need to cut it down a bit so didn't want to remove too much wood. Any way they don't need to be left green as a black marker pen is included which looks much better.

Andy

 
I have left all mine green. ..

I prefer it and I can always find my gun in the rack :)

 
Hello.......helllooooooo. What part of easy does no one understand. .. Or is it cos I is a girl???

Knife cut and then sand.

Simples clickches :)

 
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